Miercoles, 25 Febrero. Yesterday, Alan and I went to the National Symphony courtesy of Erasmito Lopez, the cousin of our close friend, Danny Merida. Erasmito is a flutist with the National Symphony. We had talked with him via telephone over the weekend and he invited us to a rehearsal of Mozart's "The Magic Flute," which is being premiered here this weekend. The symphony hall is a grand old building that could use some revitalizing but is still regal. It is clear that they are "cubanizing" the production as a guiro was added in the mix. A guiro is an idiophone that has survived from the indigenous civilizations. It is the long gourd that has ridges in it. It is hand held and played with a scraper. And the presentation is being sung in espanol. The symphony had plenty musicians of color - more than I have ever seen in the USA. The cast also included significant numbers of peoples of color.
We stayed for about 90 minutes of the rehearsal, and then asked if it was possible to bring our students back for the full dress rehearsal on Friday so they could experience 21st century Cuban music culture. We are awaiting an answer...I think it is going to happen. I then told the kids about it last night so they could decide about going - I cannot make it mandatory but explained that it would be a great opportunity for them. They are to give me their answers today.
Today I am giving s short rap on "Hiphop/rap and activism" at a session arranged by Alan. It is happening at 2pm in Old Habana (Habana viejo). Will give more about this later. I am going to link some of my presentation to the legacy of music and activism in Black culture throughout the western hemisphere...from caiso traditions of Trinidad to spirituals, blues and movement music of USA Blacks. Also I am referencing Tricia Rose's new book, "The Hip Hop Wars."
Oh yeah, I am giving a solo soprano saxophone concert on March 12, 4pm at Casa de Las Americas.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Monday, February 23, 2009
Domingo reflections
Domingo reflections
12:45 am Lunes, 23 Febrero
Just in from hearing Roberto Fonseca’s group at Havana Jazz Club, which is about 7 blocks from “mi casa.” They were just as wonderful as when I first heard them at the Havana Jazz Festival 2 weeks ago. In fact, they were more impressive . Outstanding musicianship that touches and communicates. Fonesca is a pianist and composer (early 30’s in age) who has this stream of creativity that flows in long lines that at times are as funky as you would ever want to be, or as pensive and sweet as you cannot stand, or as exciting and driving as you can stand. He is the real deal. The horn player, bassist and drummer were the same as the jazz festival and they are all just killers…clear that they have spent plenty of time making music together. They again performed a song in memory of Cachaito that I first heard at the jazz festival. What a beautiful piece.
After the gig, I spoke with Javier Zalba, the reed player, and hope to hear from him. It would be great to bring him in for a special session with the students. Plus I want to spend time with him and talk saxophonics. The other day, Alan bought his book on saxophone technique studies for me. On the way back to the crib tonight, night blooming jasmine enriched my senses – just came out of the dark and embraced me in sweetness.
Earlier I went to a “violin,” which was a spiritual ceremony to Oshun/Ochun that Alan knew of. This was different as they used violin, guitar and bongos rather than sanctified drums. It was located not too far from our residence and was an interesting aesthetic that I found very different from the tambors I have experienced. No batas, no African based cancion. Much of the repertoire seemed to be boleros and popular music, including a rendetion of “I Did It My Way.” Ahh Babs. I will have to talk with Alan about this to gain some insight.
Viernes, 20 Febrero, Alan and I went to Habana Jazz Club to hear Cesar Lopez, an alto saxophonist considered one of the top contemporary Cuban musicians. The club is located at the end of the Paseo, where it links with the Malecon. Two big hotels also right across from it so plenty of touristas. The club is actually located on the 2nd floor of a mall. We got there around 10:30 and were told the band went on at midnight. Also the club does not have a no-smoking policy...what a drag! - no pun intended. Ok, so that is the deal here in Habana. Admission was 10 Cuc each which included multiple drinks and food too. Ain't gonna get that in the states for such little dinero. A cuc is one of Cuba's currency and equals about $1.20. The other national currency is monedo national and it takes 24 of these to equal one Cuc.
The band begins to show up around 11:45pm. It is a six piece group with electric bass, keyboards and guitar along with traps, congas and Cesar on alto and flute. By 12:15 they launch into the music. Up tempo and exciting, with Cesar burning on the alto. Band is tight and know one another. Their style may be influenced by Irakere as well as Grover Washington and James Brown. They stay in the pocket. They do four or five tunes in about an hour, including a beautiful bolero and end with a blistering rendition of Tizol's "Caravan." AB would have loved this one.
12:45 am Lunes, 23 Febrero
Just in from hearing Roberto Fonseca’s group at Havana Jazz Club, which is about 7 blocks from “mi casa.” They were just as wonderful as when I first heard them at the Havana Jazz Festival 2 weeks ago. In fact, they were more impressive . Outstanding musicianship that touches and communicates. Fonesca is a pianist and composer (early 30’s in age) who has this stream of creativity that flows in long lines that at times are as funky as you would ever want to be, or as pensive and sweet as you cannot stand, or as exciting and driving as you can stand. He is the real deal. The horn player, bassist and drummer were the same as the jazz festival and they are all just killers…clear that they have spent plenty of time making music together. They again performed a song in memory of Cachaito that I first heard at the jazz festival. What a beautiful piece.
After the gig, I spoke with Javier Zalba, the reed player, and hope to hear from him. It would be great to bring him in for a special session with the students. Plus I want to spend time with him and talk saxophonics. The other day, Alan bought his book on saxophone technique studies for me. On the way back to the crib tonight, night blooming jasmine enriched my senses – just came out of the dark and embraced me in sweetness.
Earlier I went to a “violin,” which was a spiritual ceremony to Oshun/Ochun that Alan knew of. This was different as they used violin, guitar and bongos rather than sanctified drums. It was located not too far from our residence and was an interesting aesthetic that I found very different from the tambors I have experienced. No batas, no African based cancion. Much of the repertoire seemed to be boleros and popular music, including a rendetion of “I Did It My Way.” Ahh Babs. I will have to talk with Alan about this to gain some insight.
Viernes, 20 Febrero, Alan and I went to Habana Jazz Club to hear Cesar Lopez, an alto saxophonist considered one of the top contemporary Cuban musicians. The club is located at the end of the Paseo, where it links with the Malecon. Two big hotels also right across from it so plenty of touristas. The club is actually located on the 2nd floor of a mall. We got there around 10:30 and were told the band went on at midnight. Also the club does not have a no-smoking policy...what a drag! - no pun intended. Ok, so that is the deal here in Habana. Admission was 10 Cuc each which included multiple drinks and food too. Ain't gonna get that in the states for such little dinero. A cuc is one of Cuba's currency and equals about $1.20. The other national currency is monedo national and it takes 24 of these to equal one Cuc.
The band begins to show up around 11:45pm. It is a six piece group with electric bass, keyboards and guitar along with traps, congas and Cesar on alto and flute. By 12:15 they launch into the music. Up tempo and exciting, with Cesar burning on the alto. Band is tight and know one another. Their style may be influenced by Irakere as well as Grover Washington and James Brown. They stay in the pocket. They do four or five tunes in about an hour, including a beautiful bolero and end with a blistering rendition of Tizol's "Caravan." AB would have loved this one.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Glimpse at Cuban Health Care
Viernes, viente Febrero
Just came back from a visit to a pre natal house that is for expecting mothers and their unborn who are at risk due to various health issues. It is part of the Cuban national system of health care that provides necessary support for good pre-natal care. As a result this system that was initiated post la revolucion, the infant mortality rate in Cuba is very low.
The location was a building in the neighborhood that had been converted in the last decade to serve this purpose. There were twelve ladies living there, all of relatively young age. The program is designed to identify at risk pregnant women at local levels, provide subsequent medical screening and analysis and then follow up with comprehensive pre natal medical support, which includes counseling. Identification happens through local doctors and nurses. Pregnant women identified as at risk are linked to a support system that stays in place throughout their pregnancy and continues post natal. Counseling and pre natal prep includes nutrition, breast feeding, etc.
Should any need more advanced medical support, they can be moved to residences in urban areas. Typical hospital stay for uncomplicated birth is 3 days; 5 days for cesarean.
Cost for service is zero. All health care in Cuba is free.
Just came back from a visit to a pre natal house that is for expecting mothers and their unborn who are at risk due to various health issues. It is part of the Cuban national system of health care that provides necessary support for good pre-natal care. As a result this system that was initiated post la revolucion, the infant mortality rate in Cuba is very low.
The location was a building in the neighborhood that had been converted in the last decade to serve this purpose. There were twelve ladies living there, all of relatively young age. The program is designed to identify at risk pregnant women at local levels, provide subsequent medical screening and analysis and then follow up with comprehensive pre natal medical support, which includes counseling. Identification happens through local doctors and nurses. Pregnant women identified as at risk are linked to a support system that stays in place throughout their pregnancy and continues post natal. Counseling and pre natal prep includes nutrition, breast feeding, etc.
Should any need more advanced medical support, they can be moved to residences in urban areas. Typical hospital stay for uncomplicated birth is 3 days; 5 days for cesarean.
Cost for service is zero. All health care in Cuba is free.
Monday, February 16, 2009
Lunes, diez y seis, Febrero
Lunes, diez y seis, Febrero
Today is a bright and sunny one with birds chirping out the window as I write this stuff at noon time. Busy weekend with Havana Jazz again on Sabado at Teatro Roldan where we heard two outstanding performances by Cuban musicians, one being a pianist whose name I do not have now but will add later after I get the 411 from Alan. The other was the Habana Sax Quartet – baritone, alto, tenor and soprano/alto, and drummer. How many times can I write about having one of the greatest musical experiences ever…this was another on. The virtuosity on the saxes was incredible!!!! And then the arrangements of Summertime, Caravan and another Cuban song…tight, smooth, challenging, well executed and soooooo musical. Now add the fact that these cats also danced rumba and other steps while playing and they also kept clave. The drummer was in the pocket all the way. From sweet to ferocious, they are the real thing. Hope to get ot hear them again before we leave. Got seis semanas so should be possible.
Domingo, we went to la playa about 20 minutes out of Havana courtesy of Arianna Hall of Cuba-Nola who had a bus that took us out and dropped us off. She has brought a group here from USA for Jazz Festival. Nice beach, with beautiful views. Sunny too. Water a little chilly but once I was in, great. Stayed about tres horas, got some sun and then back. We ( Alan, Hector and I) changed and then went to dinner in the Chinese section of Habana for dinner again with Arianna…and she paid. Alan is on the board of Cuba NOLA so his friend Hector and I were also invited. Interesting section of Habana I had not seen, On the back side of the Capitol building. After the meal, we had to walk to the capitol to get a taxi back and it was interesting seeing kids play soccer and baseball on the grounds and steps of the capitol. Won’t see that in Beacon Hill or Frankfort, KY where I am from.
Later last night, hooked up with Cheryl and Tarah via skype which is always nice. Let me know how much I miss home – like I needed a reminder. Great to “see” Cheryl as Tarah has a Mac with a camera.
Today, Lunes, have afternoon meeting with UNEAC and some NU folks who are in town trying to establish more possibilities with Cuba. Then probably dinner tonight with same group. Begin teaching tomorrow…can’t wait.
Got to study for my espanol class this afternoon...struggling with it but have not thrown in the towel.
Oh yeah, I hope to do a solo sax concert for Casa the week Cheryl is here. More to come on that.
Paz, Big D
Today is a bright and sunny one with birds chirping out the window as I write this stuff at noon time. Busy weekend with Havana Jazz again on Sabado at Teatro Roldan where we heard two outstanding performances by Cuban musicians, one being a pianist whose name I do not have now but will add later after I get the 411 from Alan. The other was the Habana Sax Quartet – baritone, alto, tenor and soprano/alto, and drummer. How many times can I write about having one of the greatest musical experiences ever…this was another on. The virtuosity on the saxes was incredible!!!! And then the arrangements of Summertime, Caravan and another Cuban song…tight, smooth, challenging, well executed and soooooo musical. Now add the fact that these cats also danced rumba and other steps while playing and they also kept clave. The drummer was in the pocket all the way. From sweet to ferocious, they are the real thing. Hope to get ot hear them again before we leave. Got seis semanas so should be possible.
Domingo, we went to la playa about 20 minutes out of Havana courtesy of Arianna Hall of Cuba-Nola who had a bus that took us out and dropped us off. She has brought a group here from USA for Jazz Festival. Nice beach, with beautiful views. Sunny too. Water a little chilly but once I was in, great. Stayed about tres horas, got some sun and then back. We ( Alan, Hector and I) changed and then went to dinner in the Chinese section of Habana for dinner again with Arianna…and she paid. Alan is on the board of Cuba NOLA so his friend Hector and I were also invited. Interesting section of Habana I had not seen, On the back side of the Capitol building. After the meal, we had to walk to the capitol to get a taxi back and it was interesting seeing kids play soccer and baseball on the grounds and steps of the capitol. Won’t see that in Beacon Hill or Frankfort, KY where I am from.
Later last night, hooked up with Cheryl and Tarah via skype which is always nice. Let me know how much I miss home – like I needed a reminder. Great to “see” Cheryl as Tarah has a Mac with a camera.
Today, Lunes, have afternoon meeting with UNEAC and some NU folks who are in town trying to establish more possibilities with Cuba. Then probably dinner tonight with same group. Begin teaching tomorrow…can’t wait.
Got to study for my espanol class this afternoon...struggling with it but have not thrown in the towel.
Oh yeah, I hope to do a solo sax concert for Casa the week Cheryl is here. More to come on that.
Paz, Big D
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Musicians with Fonseca
An update from last night's musical experience. The musicians with Robert Fonseca were Ramses Rodriguez on drums, Omar Gonzales on bass and Javier Zalba on reeds and woodwinds. My colleague, Alan West-Duran, just came in with some cds by these artists so he gets all the credit.
If you can find recordings by any of these musicians, get them. Particularly one by Zalba called BaritonCha.
If you can find recordings by any of these musicians, get them. Particularly one by Zalba called BaritonCha.
Sabado, quatorce febrero - Valentine’s Day
Reflections on Havana Jazz Festival
Two nights down and one to go
Well, after being blessed with the opportunity to go to the Havana Jazz Festival opening on Jueves with Chucho Valdes and then following up with the Viernes concert last night at Teatro Roldan, you can believe that la musica is alive and well and thriving here in Cuba.
Chucho Valdes began the festival with one of the greatest performances of music I have ever witnessed. It is clear he is a national hero her and loved by Cubans of all ages, sexes, skin colors and walks of life. Teatro Mella was packed to the gills and our seats were exquisite’, definitely worth the almost tres horas I waited in line on Martes to get them…1st level center seats about 1/3 back from the stage. Chucho had four aerophonists – two doubling on trumpets and flugelhorns; one on tenor sax and one doubling on alto and soprano sax. The bassist played upright and electric; one trap drummer; one conga player who handled six; one bata drummer; one timbales player; and three vocalists. All are virtuosos.
Once the performance began, there were no intermissions, which meant over two hours of a well planned and executed musical excursion of some of the songs made popular by Irakere two decades ago as well as new arrangements by Chucho. The repertoire included Chucho’s arrangements of classic Cuban tunes as well as jazz standards such as “Stella by Starlight.” All the solos were filled with integrity and often brilliance. About 2/3rds of the way through, the female vocalists came out. One was Chucho’s sister, and another was Omara Portuondo, the vocalist from the Buena Vista Social Club who must be in her mid 80’s now. I don’t know who the 3rd vocalists was and there was no program. But she was a killer too. The crowd knew all of them and erupted in applause when each appeared.
When they finished, we brought them back for one more and then they were gone. We left the teatro buzzing and better for having heard such great music. Alan and I met Rick from LA and we all walked over to the Hotel Melia Cohiba to wind down and talk about music and other stuff. One nice thing is that the residence where Alan and I stay is close by and easy walking distance.
Earlier in the day, I hooked up with Cuba/Nola, an organization run by Ariana Hall. Among other things, she brings folks from New Orleans to Havana for the jazz festival. Alan is on the board and in conversations with Ariana, hooked it up so I could go with the group to a visit to the Superior Institute of Art and Culture, a national school of creative and expressive arts located in the Miramar section of Havana. Here we heard young folks of high school age who have outstanding musical talent. They have been studying music since their early years and because of their accomplishments, have been selected to continue their musical studies in the Institute. They are the cream of the crop so to speak and represent the Cuban government’s understanding of the importance of creative and expressive arts and culture in daily life and the commitment necessary to ensure the continued development of such.
On Viernes, Casa de Las Americas arranged for the NU students to visit to the National Museum of Art and what a visit it was. We spent 3 hours – you actually need a couple of days to see and digest all they have – with a guided tour of Cuban visual artists’ work spanning the 18th century to today. Important and, at times, stunning work that is a great national treasure and people from all over the world come to it.
After that, I came back and worked on my espanol, as there is an exam scheduled for Sabado a doce. At 3pm, Alan and I took a shuttle to the Havana Book Fair being held for the 18th year. Location was at the old forts across the bay from Havana that have killer views back into the city. In case y’all don’t know, Cuba has one of the highest literacy levels in the world. So the fair was packed with Cubans of all ages looking to see what new was out and ready to devour it. Reading is knowledge is the popular slogan and they take it seriously. Maybe we can learn from them in this capacity. Alan gave a nice presentation on hip hop in Cuba and we returned to the crib at 7, where we ate and sat for minute before the 9pm concert of night 2 Havana Jazz Festival.
The site was Teatro Roldan, 4 blocks down and two blocks over – loving our location more and more!!!!! The night featured three young Cuban pianists/keyboardists and one from France. Rolando Luna opened with a quartet (bass, drums and percussion). Nice set – he got some killer chops - but things never really clicked. Piano out of tune and sound lacked depth.
Next was Harold Lopez-Nussa, nephew of Ernan Lopez-Nussa, a Cuban music master. Harold’s brother, whose name I did not get, was on drums and there was a great acoustic bassist too. The results were outstanding as they really understand the art of the piano trio. Great arrangements, with impressive use of dynamics, shading and coloring. I could listen to them all night.
Then to Jacques Briard, French pianist with red shoes who did solo piano. His set was a nice aesthetic shift in the program. He played very well, featuring mostly original works.
The closer was Roberto Fonseca quartet – bass, drums and reeds. And they were the killer diller. Fonseca is a real personality who interacts with the audience, uses his voice in the music and ain’t nothing he can’t do with the keyboards. Swing like crazy, give you all the funk you can stand and more, then shift to stunning beauty and sweetness. He played electronic keyboards – a Kurzweil, which was great because by this time the out of tune Steinway was really struggling after having been played by three virtuosos. One of the songs was a tribute to Cachaito, the bassist (Buena Vista Social Club) who died earlier this week. A very heartfelt expression of love. We didn’t get the names of the other musicians in the band – again no program – but they were all killers and I mean KILLERS.
So around 12:30 this morning we left Teatro Roldan with a feeling of joy and happiness as well as astonishment too, given the level of musicianship we witnessed. And round three tonight, as we will return to the Teatro Roldan for another evening of Havana Jazz Festival Concerts.
Happy Valentine’s Day y’all!!!!!!!
More to come. Over and out.
El Gran Padre D
Reflections on Havana Jazz Festival
Two nights down and one to go
Well, after being blessed with the opportunity to go to the Havana Jazz Festival opening on Jueves with Chucho Valdes and then following up with the Viernes concert last night at Teatro Roldan, you can believe that la musica is alive and well and thriving here in Cuba.
Chucho Valdes began the festival with one of the greatest performances of music I have ever witnessed. It is clear he is a national hero her and loved by Cubans of all ages, sexes, skin colors and walks of life. Teatro Mella was packed to the gills and our seats were exquisite’, definitely worth the almost tres horas I waited in line on Martes to get them…1st level center seats about 1/3 back from the stage. Chucho had four aerophonists – two doubling on trumpets and flugelhorns; one on tenor sax and one doubling on alto and soprano sax. The bassist played upright and electric; one trap drummer; one conga player who handled six; one bata drummer; one timbales player; and three vocalists. All are virtuosos.
Once the performance began, there were no intermissions, which meant over two hours of a well planned and executed musical excursion of some of the songs made popular by Irakere two decades ago as well as new arrangements by Chucho. The repertoire included Chucho’s arrangements of classic Cuban tunes as well as jazz standards such as “Stella by Starlight.” All the solos were filled with integrity and often brilliance. About 2/3rds of the way through, the female vocalists came out. One was Chucho’s sister, and another was Omara Portuondo, the vocalist from the Buena Vista Social Club who must be in her mid 80’s now. I don’t know who the 3rd vocalists was and there was no program. But she was a killer too. The crowd knew all of them and erupted in applause when each appeared.
When they finished, we brought them back for one more and then they were gone. We left the teatro buzzing and better for having heard such great music. Alan and I met Rick from LA and we all walked over to the Hotel Melia Cohiba to wind down and talk about music and other stuff. One nice thing is that the residence where Alan and I stay is close by and easy walking distance.
Earlier in the day, I hooked up with Cuba/Nola, an organization run by Ariana Hall. Among other things, she brings folks from New Orleans to Havana for the jazz festival. Alan is on the board and in conversations with Ariana, hooked it up so I could go with the group to a visit to the Superior Institute of Art and Culture, a national school of creative and expressive arts located in the Miramar section of Havana. Here we heard young folks of high school age who have outstanding musical talent. They have been studying music since their early years and because of their accomplishments, have been selected to continue their musical studies in the Institute. They are the cream of the crop so to speak and represent the Cuban government’s understanding of the importance of creative and expressive arts and culture in daily life and the commitment necessary to ensure the continued development of such.
On Viernes, Casa de Las Americas arranged for the NU students to visit to the National Museum of Art and what a visit it was. We spent 3 hours – you actually need a couple of days to see and digest all they have – with a guided tour of Cuban visual artists’ work spanning the 18th century to today. Important and, at times, stunning work that is a great national treasure and people from all over the world come to it.
After that, I came back and worked on my espanol, as there is an exam scheduled for Sabado a doce. At 3pm, Alan and I took a shuttle to the Havana Book Fair being held for the 18th year. Location was at the old forts across the bay from Havana that have killer views back into the city. In case y’all don’t know, Cuba has one of the highest literacy levels in the world. So the fair was packed with Cubans of all ages looking to see what new was out and ready to devour it. Reading is knowledge is the popular slogan and they take it seriously. Maybe we can learn from them in this capacity. Alan gave a nice presentation on hip hop in Cuba and we returned to the crib at 7, where we ate and sat for minute before the 9pm concert of night 2 Havana Jazz Festival.
The site was Teatro Roldan, 4 blocks down and two blocks over – loving our location more and more!!!!! The night featured three young Cuban pianists/keyboardists and one from France. Rolando Luna opened with a quartet (bass, drums and percussion). Nice set – he got some killer chops - but things never really clicked. Piano out of tune and sound lacked depth.
Next was Harold Lopez-Nussa, nephew of Ernan Lopez-Nussa, a Cuban music master. Harold’s brother, whose name I did not get, was on drums and there was a great acoustic bassist too. The results were outstanding as they really understand the art of the piano trio. Great arrangements, with impressive use of dynamics, shading and coloring. I could listen to them all night.
Then to Jacques Briard, French pianist with red shoes who did solo piano. His set was a nice aesthetic shift in the program. He played very well, featuring mostly original works.
The closer was Roberto Fonseca quartet – bass, drums and reeds. And they were the killer diller. Fonseca is a real personality who interacts with the audience, uses his voice in the music and ain’t nothing he can’t do with the keyboards. Swing like crazy, give you all the funk you can stand and more, then shift to stunning beauty and sweetness. He played electronic keyboards – a Kurzweil, which was great because by this time the out of tune Steinway was really struggling after having been played by three virtuosos. One of the songs was a tribute to Cachaito, the bassist (Buena Vista Social Club) who died earlier this week. A very heartfelt expression of love. We didn’t get the names of the other musicians in the band – again no program – but they were all killers and I mean KILLERS.
So around 12:30 this morning we left Teatro Roldan with a feeling of joy and happiness as well as astonishment too, given the level of musicianship we witnessed. And round three tonight, as we will return to the Teatro Roldan for another evening of Havana Jazz Festival Concerts.
Happy Valentine’s Day y’all!!!!!!!
More to come. Over and out.
El Gran Padre D
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
For the Love of Chucho y la musica
It is 5:40 pm in Havana and I just came back from spending four + hours to score tickets for the Havana Jazz Festival, which begins jueves of this week. The first part was easy - getting tickets for Viernes y Sabado at the Teatro Roldan for concerts that feature 4 to 5 groups each night. Took maybe 15 minutes with my broken espanol. The killer was getting tickets for Chucho Valdes who opens the festival Jueves in Teatro Mella, which is just a few blocks from the Teatro Roldan. Had to wait in line from 1:45 to 4:40. This was a lesson in Cuban aesthetic and patience. No high tech computer generated ticket center here - one asere who deals one on one. Crowd stretched down Linea Blvd - probably about 100 + at one time. At the beginning I was in the front 25% but after we had to shift from the front of the teatro to the sidewalk I was suddenly in the last 50%. Wasn't ready for the Cubano shift and positioning dance. But all was so cool. Nobody lost their temper or got to screaming or pushing. Folks went out of line to rap and talk and laugh, some even went to get a sandwich and then came back...and their place in line was held. Even the manicero came through...been looking for him! Try that s..t in Estados Unidos...been some real butt kickin at the least - maybe someone would get cut and/or shot. And to think this was in the middle of the afternoon to get the chance to hear Chucho Valdes. It spoke volumes about how music is so much a part of the culture here and how it is valued. So on Thursday evening of this week, y'all think of me around 9pm when, God willing, I will be sitting in Teatro Mella listening and seeing Chucho Valdes. For those of you who don't know who Chucho is, better get on it. That's it for now. Over and out from Havana
PS re Matanzas
Just wanted to clarify that the Matanzas "resort" we stayed in was actually more like a motel of 2 star quality. It is in a great setting and right next to the Tropicana. The beds were not good and there were cucarachas around, but the service was ok. The name of the "resort" was the Calimar, in case anyone is interested.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Weekend in Matanzas Province
Lunes, Ocho Febrero, 2009
Matanzas Weekend
On Thursday afternoon, 2/4, we took an arranged weekend bus trip to the province of Matanzas, about 90 kilometers from Havana. The city of Matanzas is known as the Athens of Cuba and the home of both the danzon and the rumba. It sits on a bay that opens to the Atlantic Ocean. Matanzas is also the name of the province. Alan had arranged the trip and we stayed at the Caminao Hotel, a small resort right outside of the city and next to the Tropicana Nightclub. The beautiful Caminar river winds around behind the resort, with mangrove trees growing right down to the river’s edge. Our trip guide is Edolso, a very personable guy who was more than competent.
The temperature was very chilly all day and dropped to 44 that evening - which is actually cold by Cuban standards…mine too. And who would have thought to bring overcoats or sweaters? Not me. Also it is important for me to let y’all know that many of the establishments and houses in Cuba do not have heat. Add to that the fact that except for our rooms (no heat either), the resort is almost all open space…so chilly willy!
After arriving and checking in, we go to the Tropicana Nightclub, which is a replica of the larger, more famous one in Havana. We are to have dinner there and then a show. I was skeptical about staying because it is cold but I am committed to staying for the dinner – no other choice on that. The Tropicana is all open air, so no relief from the cold and there is also a breeze…damn. Along with us, there were about 80 to 100 tourists also in attendance, many in sweaters and coats and hats too. After dinner, which you had to eat fast or be left with cold food, the mc of the show came out in a winter knit hat, gloves and a winter coat! He said it was the coldest he had ever experienced. But in the true spirit of the entertainer, the show must go on. He sang some songs to warm up the audience and then introduced the show, a full blown extravanga featuring live band and over 30 dancers and singers. I took the following from the Tropicana Matanzas website because it is a good description of what we experienced.
“The show included musical genres such as bolero, mambo, son and the unique Afro-Cuban rhythms, artistically combined to create an unforgettable night in the cozy atmosphere of the Caribbean island.”
Even though it was not a cozy night by any means, the show was outstanding, and given the cold, more impressive. It ran about two hours and thank the Lordy that the dinner included two bottles of rum. Alan and I went through one during the show – trying to stay warm. Only partially successful.
So then back to the chilly room and some nod. Dreamed of a heat wave, but no such luck. Viernes was just as chilly. After breakfast, we went into Matanzas to visit the Pharmaceutical Museum, a one of a kind experience. Located right off the main plaza in Matanzas, it is located in the home of two doctors from the 1800’s. It has been maintained in wonderful condition and features all the instruments and equipment used by the doctors to create and treat patients. It also contains the prescriptions and formulas they used for treatment, many all natural. Today, pharmacy and medical students from all over the world come to study the prescriptions and formulas. Incredibe!
We leave and go to Matanzas Seminary, the only ecumenical seminary in Cuba. It was established in 1946 and sits right in the neighborhood, on a hill with an incredible view of Matanzas city and harbor I took some video and photos too. We meet with Daniel Montoya, professor of practical theology, who gives us the history of the seminary, including how it has adapted theologies as necessary with the various changes in Cuban life. He says Cuban people are coming back to the churches now, with over 80% being newcomers. He feels this reflects the change that is happening in Cuban society. We then go out and see the incredible view.
From here we go to a park high above Matanzas for lunch, which also has great views but it is cold and breezy. We eat at Café Monseratte and it takes them over 2 hours to feed all of us. Of course the café is open air so... After lunch, we head to Vigia, a publisher of books that are all handmade. It was established in 1985 in response to the poor quality of publications done by the Cuban government. The poor quality refers to the actual product, not the content. All the books at Vigia are real special as each is individually designed and the handmade. The handmade version is then printed in limited editions. I buy a book on Cuban musician Jose White. Vigia is located in the section where Matanzas was originally founded, on a site where the San Juan river flows into the bay. Matanzas now has a population of around 80,000.
After this we head back to the resort for some down time, then back into Matanzas for dinner at a restaurant which is right around the corner from Vigia.
Sabado comes with a slight increase in temperature but still chilly. Today we head out at 9am to Jovellanos and Jaguey Grande, two smaller towns in the province. Alan’s purpose is to give us some experiences outside of the city of Matanzas. In Jovellanos, we visit a small studio that exhibits some sculpture of a local artist. We also visit a bookstore where we find a four-volume edition on Cuban music history that Alan buys. He knows the author and is excited about the purchase. Later we learn that the books are out of print. I buy a couple of cds for the incredible price of .50 each. Then back into the bus to Jaguey Grande. As we drive through the countryside, Edolso gives us important commentary on what we see, ranging from orange and mango groves to secondary schools for agriculture to an type of bush that has invaded much of Cuba and is destroying farm land. It seems that the bush is so strong, it is damn near impossible to eradicate it. We also see soldiers going through maneuvers. We drive though small towns where the streets are busy with families out as it is Sabado. It is important to note that pedestrians do not have the right of way at all in Cuba. Cars, buses, motorcycles and trucks rule so those walking have to be very aware.
We arrive at Jaguey Grande around 11:30. This is a small town that played a central role in the revolution. Our guides are Humberto, local historian and Abel Gonzalez Fagundo, award winning poet. Both are residents of Jaguey Grande. We learn that Fidel used this town as a base for troops, supplies and treatment of wounded soldiers. The town is proud of its history in la revolucion. There is a beautiful square with statues of Marti, Maceo and one of mothers who gave their lives and their children to the revolution. We also learn that the town took a major blow from a hurricane in the early 1990’s and is still recovering.
There is a medical school here also with students from Pakistan and China. After the history lesson, we dine at local restaurant and then students find a local place where we get pastels (cake) that is delicious. They buy a whole one for consumption later on. We then go a walking tour that includes visit to Children’s Library that has been recognized by UNICEF. We see los ninos y ninas using the library. From there we move around town, seeing new projects to replace water pipes and a visit to the small church. We wrap up with a visit to a local wine maker, where I purchase some wine made from the fruit of the cashew tree.
Then back to the bus for the return trip and dinner at in Matanzas. There is an option to go dancing after dinner but Alan and I opt out. My back is tired – mattresses aint great – and I need to do some reading. Find out later that some of the students went dancing to the wee hours at a club that is located right across the road in the Tropicana.
We leave Sunday morning and head for Varadero, the famous beach and resort community. Since I was here quince anos ago, it has really been developed with over 50 hotels now. We spend 5 hours here, but too cold for me to go swimming. Alan and I sit on the beach and enjoy the sound of the ocean. It warms up by noon – into high 60’s maybe. We put on sun screen for protection and I actually brown up a little.
We leave at 3pm and head back to Havana where we arrive around 5.
Good to be back to our Havana home – Zenaida is glad to see us and we her too. Find out later Alan left his cane and I left my glasses on the bus, but telephone calls to the bus driver and Edolso end up locating them and we will pick up later today. Whew…
I begin one on one Spanish Lessons today with Gabi. I am motivated. Also Havana Jazz Festival begins Thursday.
Mo later.
Matanzas Weekend
On Thursday afternoon, 2/4, we took an arranged weekend bus trip to the province of Matanzas, about 90 kilometers from Havana. The city of Matanzas is known as the Athens of Cuba and the home of both the danzon and the rumba. It sits on a bay that opens to the Atlantic Ocean. Matanzas is also the name of the province. Alan had arranged the trip and we stayed at the Caminao Hotel, a small resort right outside of the city and next to the Tropicana Nightclub. The beautiful Caminar river winds around behind the resort, with mangrove trees growing right down to the river’s edge. Our trip guide is Edolso, a very personable guy who was more than competent.
The temperature was very chilly all day and dropped to 44 that evening - which is actually cold by Cuban standards…mine too. And who would have thought to bring overcoats or sweaters? Not me. Also it is important for me to let y’all know that many of the establishments and houses in Cuba do not have heat. Add to that the fact that except for our rooms (no heat either), the resort is almost all open space…so chilly willy!
After arriving and checking in, we go to the Tropicana Nightclub, which is a replica of the larger, more famous one in Havana. We are to have dinner there and then a show. I was skeptical about staying because it is cold but I am committed to staying for the dinner – no other choice on that. The Tropicana is all open air, so no relief from the cold and there is also a breeze…damn. Along with us, there were about 80 to 100 tourists also in attendance, many in sweaters and coats and hats too. After dinner, which you had to eat fast or be left with cold food, the mc of the show came out in a winter knit hat, gloves and a winter coat! He said it was the coldest he had ever experienced. But in the true spirit of the entertainer, the show must go on. He sang some songs to warm up the audience and then introduced the show, a full blown extravanga featuring live band and over 30 dancers and singers. I took the following from the Tropicana Matanzas website because it is a good description of what we experienced.
“The show included musical genres such as bolero, mambo, son and the unique Afro-Cuban rhythms, artistically combined to create an unforgettable night in the cozy atmosphere of the Caribbean island.”
Even though it was not a cozy night by any means, the show was outstanding, and given the cold, more impressive. It ran about two hours and thank the Lordy that the dinner included two bottles of rum. Alan and I went through one during the show – trying to stay warm. Only partially successful.
So then back to the chilly room and some nod. Dreamed of a heat wave, but no such luck. Viernes was just as chilly. After breakfast, we went into Matanzas to visit the Pharmaceutical Museum, a one of a kind experience. Located right off the main plaza in Matanzas, it is located in the home of two doctors from the 1800’s. It has been maintained in wonderful condition and features all the instruments and equipment used by the doctors to create and treat patients. It also contains the prescriptions and formulas they used for treatment, many all natural. Today, pharmacy and medical students from all over the world come to study the prescriptions and formulas. Incredibe!
We leave and go to Matanzas Seminary, the only ecumenical seminary in Cuba. It was established in 1946 and sits right in the neighborhood, on a hill with an incredible view of Matanzas city and harbor I took some video and photos too. We meet with Daniel Montoya, professor of practical theology, who gives us the history of the seminary, including how it has adapted theologies as necessary with the various changes in Cuban life. He says Cuban people are coming back to the churches now, with over 80% being newcomers. He feels this reflects the change that is happening in Cuban society. We then go out and see the incredible view.
From here we go to a park high above Matanzas for lunch, which also has great views but it is cold and breezy. We eat at Café Monseratte and it takes them over 2 hours to feed all of us. Of course the café is open air so... After lunch, we head to Vigia, a publisher of books that are all handmade. It was established in 1985 in response to the poor quality of publications done by the Cuban government. The poor quality refers to the actual product, not the content. All the books at Vigia are real special as each is individually designed and the handmade. The handmade version is then printed in limited editions. I buy a book on Cuban musician Jose White. Vigia is located in the section where Matanzas was originally founded, on a site where the San Juan river flows into the bay. Matanzas now has a population of around 80,000.
After this we head back to the resort for some down time, then back into Matanzas for dinner at a restaurant which is right around the corner from Vigia.
Sabado comes with a slight increase in temperature but still chilly. Today we head out at 9am to Jovellanos and Jaguey Grande, two smaller towns in the province. Alan’s purpose is to give us some experiences outside of the city of Matanzas. In Jovellanos, we visit a small studio that exhibits some sculpture of a local artist. We also visit a bookstore where we find a four-volume edition on Cuban music history that Alan buys. He knows the author and is excited about the purchase. Later we learn that the books are out of print. I buy a couple of cds for the incredible price of .50 each. Then back into the bus to Jaguey Grande. As we drive through the countryside, Edolso gives us important commentary on what we see, ranging from orange and mango groves to secondary schools for agriculture to an type of bush that has invaded much of Cuba and is destroying farm land. It seems that the bush is so strong, it is damn near impossible to eradicate it. We also see soldiers going through maneuvers. We drive though small towns where the streets are busy with families out as it is Sabado. It is important to note that pedestrians do not have the right of way at all in Cuba. Cars, buses, motorcycles and trucks rule so those walking have to be very aware.
We arrive at Jaguey Grande around 11:30. This is a small town that played a central role in the revolution. Our guides are Humberto, local historian and Abel Gonzalez Fagundo, award winning poet. Both are residents of Jaguey Grande. We learn that Fidel used this town as a base for troops, supplies and treatment of wounded soldiers. The town is proud of its history in la revolucion. There is a beautiful square with statues of Marti, Maceo and one of mothers who gave their lives and their children to the revolution. We also learn that the town took a major blow from a hurricane in the early 1990’s and is still recovering.
There is a medical school here also with students from Pakistan and China. After the history lesson, we dine at local restaurant and then students find a local place where we get pastels (cake) that is delicious. They buy a whole one for consumption later on. We then go a walking tour that includes visit to Children’s Library that has been recognized by UNICEF. We see los ninos y ninas using the library. From there we move around town, seeing new projects to replace water pipes and a visit to the small church. We wrap up with a visit to a local wine maker, where I purchase some wine made from the fruit of the cashew tree.
Then back to the bus for the return trip and dinner at in Matanzas. There is an option to go dancing after dinner but Alan and I opt out. My back is tired – mattresses aint great – and I need to do some reading. Find out later that some of the students went dancing to the wee hours at a club that is located right across the road in the Tropicana.
We leave Sunday morning and head for Varadero, the famous beach and resort community. Since I was here quince anos ago, it has really been developed with over 50 hotels now. We spend 5 hours here, but too cold for me to go swimming. Alan and I sit on the beach and enjoy the sound of the ocean. It warms up by noon – into high 60’s maybe. We put on sun screen for protection and I actually brown up a little.
We leave at 3pm and head back to Havana where we arrive around 5.
Good to be back to our Havana home – Zenaida is glad to see us and we her too. Find out later Alan left his cane and I left my glasses on the bus, but telephone calls to the bus driver and Edolso end up locating them and we will pick up later today. Whew…
I begin one on one Spanish Lessons today with Gabi. I am motivated. Also Havana Jazz Festival begins Thursday.
Mo later.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Miercoles, quarto Febrero
Cool in Havana this morning, with strong winds. Heavy rain Monday night, which brought in this temperature change. Monday featured meeting jurados por Premio Literario Casa de las Americas – I may have mentioned this before. Los jurados included such luminaries as Carmen Boullosa ( Mexico), Carlos Noguera (Venezuela), Hector Tizon (Argentina), Beatriz Helena Robledo (Colombia), Teresa Cardenas (Cuba), and Roberto Marquez (Puerto Rico – EE.UU).
Had almuerzo at local restaurant where cost is very little – based on national money of Cuba, which is much lower than CUC. So a meal for two – pollo con fried arroz y ensalada plus dos cervezas -cost $5!!! Will be eating here as the food was good and it is only two blocks from our residence.
In my efforts to get some fluency con espanol, I talked with Gabriel (Gabi), Hector’s ijo, about tutoring me in the language. He will come by tomorrow (martes) and we will see if things can work out. I got some good time in on rosetta stone Spanish language program and soprano too today. Then had la cena con estudiantes in their residence – about siete blocks down from us – have a penthouse suite on the 12th floor overlooking the Malecon and Atlantic Ocean. It was good sitting and talking with them.
Came back and sat up with Alan looking at videos and talking about music and culture and Caribbean history. He is a walking history book.
On Martes, spent time with rosetta stone and soprano again. Casa technician came over and tried to get SKYPE working but no good. I need Michel, who was the 1st one that configured my laptop, but he is not back till Lunes. Took a walk over to Teatro Mella, named for founder of Cuban communist party, to see about tickets for William Vivano, popular Cuban musician who is giving concert Tuesday night, but sold out. Alan thinks students may be able to hook us up…we will see. Notice that UNESCO has a site here as well as national ballet and national symphony sites too. And the national escuela de musica is just a couple of blocks away. Will have to investigate all this in the coming weeks. And the Havana Jazz Festival begins next week…more to come about that.
Gabi shows up on time and we talk about him giving me Spanish lessons and me giving him English lessons. We agree to begin next week, 3 days weekly, for the remainder of the month – lunes, miercoles y jueves from 4:30 to 5:30. I hope that his tutoring along with rosetta stone will help me get some fluency. Alan agrees.
After dinner, we go around to Theater Mella and meet students who have hooked us up for the Vivano concert – costs us $2 each to get in! Place is packed, mostly with younger folks. Vivano is a vocalist and guitarist. Band includes, keyboards, traps, bongos and congas, tablas, elec guitar, elec bass, 3 horns (2 tmpts and 1 sax), and two singers. They do about 100 minute performance, many songs clearly known by the audience who engage in singing along and dancing too. We are back in the crib by eleven. Weather is definitely cool and very windy now. Hit the sack round midnight after talking about upcoming trip with estudiantes to Matanzas from Thursday through Sunday. Should be exciting and informative. Matanzas is sometimes called the Athens of Cuba.
Cool in Havana this morning, with strong winds. Heavy rain Monday night, which brought in this temperature change. Monday featured meeting jurados por Premio Literario Casa de las Americas – I may have mentioned this before. Los jurados included such luminaries as Carmen Boullosa ( Mexico), Carlos Noguera (Venezuela), Hector Tizon (Argentina), Beatriz Helena Robledo (Colombia), Teresa Cardenas (Cuba), and Roberto Marquez (Puerto Rico – EE.UU).
Had almuerzo at local restaurant where cost is very little – based on national money of Cuba, which is much lower than CUC. So a meal for two – pollo con fried arroz y ensalada plus dos cervezas -cost $5!!! Will be eating here as the food was good and it is only two blocks from our residence.
In my efforts to get some fluency con espanol, I talked with Gabriel (Gabi), Hector’s ijo, about tutoring me in the language. He will come by tomorrow (martes) and we will see if things can work out. I got some good time in on rosetta stone Spanish language program and soprano too today. Then had la cena con estudiantes in their residence – about siete blocks down from us – have a penthouse suite on the 12th floor overlooking the Malecon and Atlantic Ocean. It was good sitting and talking with them.
Came back and sat up with Alan looking at videos and talking about music and culture and Caribbean history. He is a walking history book.
On Martes, spent time with rosetta stone and soprano again. Casa technician came over and tried to get SKYPE working but no good. I need Michel, who was the 1st one that configured my laptop, but he is not back till Lunes. Took a walk over to Teatro Mella, named for founder of Cuban communist party, to see about tickets for William Vivano, popular Cuban musician who is giving concert Tuesday night, but sold out. Alan thinks students may be able to hook us up…we will see. Notice that UNESCO has a site here as well as national ballet and national symphony sites too. And the national escuela de musica is just a couple of blocks away. Will have to investigate all this in the coming weeks. And the Havana Jazz Festival begins next week…more to come about that.
Gabi shows up on time and we talk about him giving me Spanish lessons and me giving him English lessons. We agree to begin next week, 3 days weekly, for the remainder of the month – lunes, miercoles y jueves from 4:30 to 5:30. I hope that his tutoring along with rosetta stone will help me get some fluency. Alan agrees.
After dinner, we go around to Theater Mella and meet students who have hooked us up for the Vivano concert – costs us $2 each to get in! Place is packed, mostly with younger folks. Vivano is a vocalist and guitarist. Band includes, keyboards, traps, bongos and congas, tablas, elec guitar, elec bass, 3 horns (2 tmpts and 1 sax), and two singers. They do about 100 minute performance, many songs clearly known by the audience who engage in singing along and dancing too. We are back in the crib by eleven. Weather is definitely cool and very windy now. Hit the sack round midnight after talking about upcoming trip with estudiantes to Matanzas from Thursday through Sunday. Should be exciting and informative. Matanzas is sometimes called the Athens of Cuba.
Monday, February 2, 2009
Weekend Reflections
Spent the weekend celebrating Alan’s 56th birthday. On Sabado, we hooked up with his good amigo, Hector Delgado, an outstanding photographer. Hector drove us into downtown Havana where we spent the afternoon walking through the streets, seeing all the sites, including the Revolucion Museum, the old Catholic churches built by the Spanish colonizers in the 1500’s – incredible structures rich in history, stone paved streets, mucho plazas, many with signs or banners announcing the 50th anniversary of la revolucion or simple “revolucion siempre”. There were large posters of Fidel all over, carrying the insignia of one of the companies helping to sponsor the celebration – which is one clear sign of change in 50 years. Street vendors are hawking revolucion stuff all around. We go by the revolucion museo, which has tanks, missiles and the Granma boat on which Fidel and others sailed into Cuba from Mexico back in 1959. In a plaza near the Cathedral of St Francis of Assisi, there are booksellers with a vast array of old and new works covering a plethora of topics – architecture, history, food, arts, culture, geography, cartoons, travel – you name it, they have it. All purchases can be bargained and Alan buys a book on the revolucion that he has been seeking for years.
We have lunch at a restaurant that features musicians playing everything from pop to flamenco dancing. Stilt walkers go by outside, dressed in colorful outfits with drummers leading the way.
Food is good and very reasonable. The local currency is CUC, good only in Cuba. At this time, $100 Canadian money, which I brought with me, gets $71.75 in CUC. Us dollar gets even less.
After plenty of walking and looking and seeing, we return to Hector’s car which is right across from the Capitol building, which is larger than the one in DC. Then off the Hector’s apartment which is just 4 blocks from where we are staying. I meet his wife, Merta, son Gabbi and Merta’s papa, who is 94. We spend the evening there, having arroz con pollo and flan. We engage in conversation, with Alan bridging as my espanol is still out to lunch and Hector speaks minimal English. It is a good evening and good end to a long day. By the time we get to our living space, Alan is cincuenta y seis anos y uno dia.
On Domingo, Febrero 1, we go to see Victor Fowler, the authority on Cuban film who is teaching as course for the NU program at Casa. He and Alan are good friends and I meet his esposa, hija y hijo. We spend time there looking at clips of old Cuban films pre la revolucion. Interesting images, particularly of who was and was not included. We then head to Alan’s Tia Gloria and her family. They are very happy to see him and we stay in to the evening, with dinner of parvo, salad, moros y christianos (black beans and rice), and finished with a delicious cake. Around Nuevo, they drop is back at the President Hotel, 4 blocks from our residence, where Alan meets with Ariana Hall of CUBA/NOLA, an organization she started that specializes in activities and endeavors linking Cuba and New Orleans.
As we head back to our residence, Alan tells me that tomorrow, lunes, we will go to Casa in the morning for the opening of Premio Literario Casa de Las Americas, where those selected as jurors will be presented. It will be a big time thing with many of the greatest scholars, journalists, artists, writers, and poets of Latin American present. I tell him that is exciting and that I also will begin carving out 3-4 hours per day to work on my espanol and to get my sax chops back up. What an exciting and interesting premiero quatro dias en Havana.
We have lunch at a restaurant that features musicians playing everything from pop to flamenco dancing. Stilt walkers go by outside, dressed in colorful outfits with drummers leading the way.
Food is good and very reasonable. The local currency is CUC, good only in Cuba. At this time, $100 Canadian money, which I brought with me, gets $71.75 in CUC. Us dollar gets even less.
After plenty of walking and looking and seeing, we return to Hector’s car which is right across from the Capitol building, which is larger than the one in DC. Then off the Hector’s apartment which is just 4 blocks from where we are staying. I meet his wife, Merta, son Gabbi and Merta’s papa, who is 94. We spend the evening there, having arroz con pollo and flan. We engage in conversation, with Alan bridging as my espanol is still out to lunch and Hector speaks minimal English. It is a good evening and good end to a long day. By the time we get to our living space, Alan is cincuenta y seis anos y uno dia.
On Domingo, Febrero 1, we go to see Victor Fowler, the authority on Cuban film who is teaching as course for the NU program at Casa. He and Alan are good friends and I meet his esposa, hija y hijo. We spend time there looking at clips of old Cuban films pre la revolucion. Interesting images, particularly of who was and was not included. We then head to Alan’s Tia Gloria and her family. They are very happy to see him and we stay in to the evening, with dinner of parvo, salad, moros y christianos (black beans and rice), and finished with a delicious cake. Around Nuevo, they drop is back at the President Hotel, 4 blocks from our residence, where Alan meets with Ariana Hall of CUBA/NOLA, an organization she started that specializes in activities and endeavors linking Cuba and New Orleans.
As we head back to our residence, Alan tells me that tomorrow, lunes, we will go to Casa in the morning for the opening of Premio Literario Casa de Las Americas, where those selected as jurors will be presented. It will be a big time thing with many of the greatest scholars, journalists, artists, writers, and poets of Latin American present. I tell him that is exciting and that I also will begin carving out 3-4 hours per day to work on my espanol and to get my sax chops back up. What an exciting and interesting premiero quatro dias en Havana.
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