Sabado, the last full day in Havana as we fly out tomorrow, via Miami and hopefully into Boston round midnite. Yesterday I went to central Havana and dropped off some photo prints that our good friend, Danny Merida, sent via Cheryl for his cousin Erasmito. Erasmito is a flutist with the symphony here. After that, I did some tourista stuff that I had not done, including walking around the capitol, up and down the Prado and on into Barrio Chine, taking photos all the way.
Then I sat in a plaza waiting for the bus and talked with folks in my very limited and broken Spanish. Most were curious about who I was and why I was here. An older Afro-Cuban man told me in English, as he passed by, that he was not sure he was happy about me being in his country. Nothing threatening, just a passing comment, and worthy of acknowledging. I asked him why, but he just kept on moving. Another lady was an elementary school teacher in playas de este. She teaches espanol to grades 1 thru five. She wanted to know why I was here and was curious about what our students are studying.
Then onto the bus and back to Verdado, where I picked up a couple of cds and had pizza at Hotel El Presidente. right down the street from where I stay. Ran into a group of US men there dressed in baseball uniforms, some of which were dusty from playing. I asked them what they were up to and found out they come to play baseball aka pelota here - with similar cubans - a type of good will via deportes. Some have been coming for multiple years. Nice to see.
I forgot to mention Oscar Valdez at Havana Jazz Cafe on Wednesday night. Alan and I went as we had seen him advertised all during the time we have been here so... It was an interesting set with Valdez on batas and chequeres and vocals, a conga drummer of Japanese ancestry playing 3 congas, a trap drummer, elec. bass, elec. keys and reed man on flute and tenor. This was another good band, with tight arrangements. Featured a beautiful song for Yemanya as well as WoodynYou by Diz and another bop classic that I cannot remember the title. along with a version of "Walkin". This was our last time at Havana Jazz Club and it has served us well, with outstanding performances, reasonable prices and great location - 6 blocks away.
Last night, went to Alan's Titi Gloria for a good home cooked meal. Got in here around 11:30, poco cansado but in time enough to skype with Cheryl.
Hoy sees me packing up and then headed out to consider possible cd purchases. Down to the last few Cuc ( Cuban money) so will have to be selective and looking for the killer deals. Egrem -major Cuban label- has store a couple of blocks away in the Teatro Roldan. Have heard plenty of great stuff and know some specific musicians whose music I am seeking. Glad I waited to the end rather than jumping in too fast..not that I haven't bought anything. At 5 pm, I go to UNEAC via an invitation by Alberto Faya, one of the founders to the Nuevo Trova here post la revolucion and a real leader in the music community. He sings, composes, plays guitar, and has radio and television shows. I met him through Alan and had him come to class last week and present on the trova tradition as related to the revolution and today's time. I like him very much and we had an almost immediate click. His knowledge and understanding of how music serves to unify and strengthen people in times of change is impressive.
So he invited me to a session where newly recruited young teachers of 7th 8th and 9th grades are interfacing with musicians to talk about integrating music into the curriculum. There will also be a chance to play, so I am taking my horn. After that, Alan and I are taking Zenaida, aka La Reina Madre, out for dinner. Just a small token of our appreciation of the care she has given us at the Casa residence where we stay. I will probably head to La Zorra & El Cuervo to hear Yasek Manzano, the young trumpet lion. In fact, we may play some before as Faya said he would probably be at the UNEAC. So that is the plan for hoy. Tomorrow we are picked up at 11am to airport for 2:30 pm flight to Miami and then 8:30pm flight to Boston. Maybe I can catch some of the NCAA Div 1 College Basketball finals between flights.
Later I will write my reflections on this trip. But even now, I need to thank Omrao for encouraging me to do this blog. It has been very beneficial for me to be able to share my experiences with those of you who read it. Cuba is a daily challenge because so many here have so little, and if you take the time to pay attention, you can see that it is wearing on the people. When you come in as a visitor, you plug in at a different level. Cubans know you must have some resources and expect you to shar them. So if you go for a meal with a Cuban, you pay. Same if you ask someone out for a drink, etc. One learns quickly that asking two or three Cuban friends out for a night can be very expensive. And please habla espanol. I have made it thru with my pathetic Spanish and Alan's patience but one really needs to be fluent with language to interact with Cuban culture.
I can say that Cubans love and respect for music and dance is unique and somewhat special in these days of what I consider excessive homogeneity of music via globalization. Rumba, changui, son, timba, punto guajiro, danzon and the other Cuban genres are alive and well here. Rap here is not about bitches and hoes and glitz and glamor...it is more about social consciousness and issues facing youth., racial as well as gender. But Reggaeton is exerting some serious power that has some folks concerned about the future of traditional Cuban music. Time will tell, but from what I have heard in live settings, master musicians like Ochoa, Maraca, Eva Grinan and Chucho Valdes will ensure that the music continues to grown and evolve. And then there are the young ones who are being developed as I write. La Musica Cubana in the 21st century is really something. I have experienced it in many setting and locations, from concert halls to classrooms, the radio and tv, to religious and spiritual contexts, and in the streets. What a blessing....
7pm: Ok I just came back from UNEAC session with Faya and Yasek Manzano, where we played and discussed improvisation. It was attended by UNEAC members from the surrounding community and the purpose is to re-establish community involvement in the arts, as things have waned over the past few years. Faya is at the center of this revitalization. Yasek has studied with Wynton and Hargrove so you know he plays real good. Add to that his understanding of his own Cuban traditions and incorporating them in the music and it is something special. We did some blues as well as spontaneous improv and I will probably go hear him tonight at La Zorra at 11pm. The blessing continues....
ps on Sunday, 3/29 @ 7:30am. Did not go see Yazek last night...too tired so stayed in and rapped with Alan about effectiveness of this initial study abroad in Cuba.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
La Musica Reflections Santiago and mo.. 3/24/09 - 5 days left
Well all I can say is that Cuba must be the music center for the western hemisphere because last night at Teatro Mella, Orlando Valle (aka Maraca) y su orquestra played some of the best music I have ever heard anywhere. And the variety was increible! He is a flute virtuoso and had other virtuosos with him as they presented the final concert of a national tour...so they were tight and exciting. Add to this his bringing in a group of young musicians, Los Originalitis de Manzanillos - 10 - 14 years old - who are mastering the tradition and also played outstanding. Then there were the guests artists, including Guillerme Rubalcaba, Gonzalo's padre - a master pianist himself, and then there was Yorumi, Maracas' hermano and a master vocalist in his own right. The finale being a performance by Yoruba Andabo, a professional rumba group who guaguanco'd right off the planet. Maracas' band was 3 trumpets, tenor sax, baritone sax, trombone, congas, traps, elec bass. elec kybds, guitar, 2 singers/dancers, and himself on flute (c and alto). When the rumba group came out they had traditional percussion including the cajon and tumberdoras. The whole teatro was up and dancing, and yes azucar, me too!!!! Aiiyyeeee...
Now let me back up a little as this was the fouth day in row of la musica increible...It began with our weekend trip to Santiago. This had some reflections for me as this was the initial stop on my Cuban experience fifteen years ago. Santiago is one of the oldest towns, est. in 1515. It also has some unique Africanisms, including tumba francesa..but I will get to that.
Alan and I arranged this trip for estudiantes as part of their learning about Cuban culture. We had identified Oscar Menzies via Arianna Hall of CubaNola. Linking with Oscar ended up being very important as he is so knowledgeable of cultural traditions of Santiago and is also highly regarded in the community. He was referred to as the "babalao of tumba francesa." We also found out there was a fiesta de trova happening all weekend...and I had just covered trova in class with the students,including a presentation by Alberto Faya. We arranged for a special performance of tumba francesa for them.
So we fly in on Thursday night, arriving around 10pm to drizzle. we get to hotel which is centrally located in Santiago, right across from plaza de marte. Notice touristas from Germany and other European countries. Rooms nice, even had a bed big enough for me to turn over without falling off.
Friday begins with desayuno, which is included in the package so I plan on eating hearty, hoping it will last until la cena. Afterwards, we - estudiantes, Oscar, Ismar(guide) y Mario (driver) of Havana tours, Alan and myself, head out to El Cobre to see important church as well as visit site commemorating legacy of freedom fights of the enslaved..cimarrons with sculpture by Lescay. But on the way, we stop at plaza de la revolution where we see a huge - and I mean huge - sculpture by Alberto Lescay, Cuban master artist of African ancestry, of Antonio Maceo, Cubano of African ancestry who was a great warrior in the fight for independence in late 1800s and is a national hero. The size of the work is staggering, over 80 feet in height and probably 25 to 30 feet in length and width. It shows Maceo on rearing horse, gesturing for those behind to follow him. Next to it is a large sculpture depicting machetes, which were used by enslaved Blacks in the freedom fights. This is a powerful representation of the history of the fight for freedom in Cuba that stretches back to the mid 1800's on into the late 50's with success in 1959.
We then continue on out to the country side and El Cobre, which was a site for copper mining established in the 1500's. It has a church that is revered as the home of the virgin of charity and miracles. Below is info I copied from this website (www.sacred-destinations.com/cuba/el-cobre.htm).
After asking for blessings for the family and forgiveness for the horrors of the mines and enslavement, we move on the Cimarron monument, which is located on a hill opposite the cchurch and offers a spectacular view of the area. Challenging climb up, even with steps carved into the hill. Reminded me of younger times growing up in Frankfort, KY when we would climb Fort Hill for adventures too numerous and exciting to mention.
For more on the monument in Cobre, please go to this website for more info (humweb.ucsc.edu/elcobre/images_commemoration.html). This is a site that features Alberto Lescay's sculptured monument (over 40 feet with an nganga -regla de palo- at the base) commemorating the Runaway slave. It is part of a transnational commemorative project sponsored jointly by UNESCO and local entities entitled the "Route of the Slave." Linked with the Virgin of charity in the church across the valley, the spiritual connection here was very strong, not to mention the recognition of the enslaved and the strength of those who fought for their freedom and were labeled cimarrons (runaways) by the Spanish. Reminds me of the old spiritual in the USA, Oh Freedom whose lyrics are, "before I'll be a slave I'll be buried in my grave and go home to my lord and be free."
And all this happens before almuerzo, so we head back to Santiago for a meal. Later we go to Fort Morro which has spectacular views of Santiago harbor and Caribbean sea. Historical significance in that the harbor was the sight of the final naval battle where USA and Cuban defeated Spain in late 1800's. After this, we head back to hotel for quiet time, but first, Alan, Oscar and I stop at Casa de la trova, which is the site the trova festival. We just miss a performace and after drinking a bottle of mineral water, I head back to hotel on foot. About a 20 minute walk through Santiago which allows me to get a better feel and to orientate myself.
Later that evening, Oscar arranges for Alan and I to attend a live performance of Eliades Ochoa, William Vivanco, and Los Jubilanos in the Salon de Son. This is a newly opened facililty where performances are taped with live audiences. In attendance are important government officials as well as significant members of Santiago community including master musicians.
The music was..ok you should know by now - off the planet. Los Jubilanos is a son group composed of older Afro Cubans (most 70 and above) under the direction of Pedro Gomez. Absolute killers..and I got their recording at the torova festival on Sunday. Opps - getting ahead of myself. They were followed by Eliades Ochoa, whom some of you may know from Beuna Vista, but he wasn't doing nothing like what I heard this night. His group featured elec keys, two tmrpts, congas, bongos, acoustic bass, rhythm guitar, and vocalist. Gorgeous music, with tight arrangements. Of course folks had begun dancing with Jubilanos and it got even busier when Ochoa hit. He is a marvelous musician and revered in Cuba, and especially in Santiago. Damn, I cannot believe how good this music is. And then out comes William Vivanco, who I heard early in my stay at Teatro Mella in Havana with a full band. He does a couple of traditional tunes with Ochoa - acknowledging the traditions of son - and the hits with a very sparse accompaniments of cajon and elec bass. what a change from what he had in Havana. He is regarded as one of the leading younger musicians of today. He sings and plays guitar...another killer.
So that is the end of the 1st full day in Santiago.
Saturday sees me going to Guantanamo with the students. Nothing outstanding ther...I think they thought they would be able to see the US camp, but no chance of that. The scenery and land during the drive was spectacular - the sierra maestra mountains, with vistas that stretched forever. The farm lands and towns like Songo, a predominantly Black town that was founded by former slaves in the late 1800s's. Also a treatment facility for those with mental health issues.
we got back around 4 and as soon as we emptied out the bus, the skies opened up with torrents of rain. Electricity in hotel went out almost immediately and stayed off for about 90 minutes.
Later, after rain stopped and sun came out, we went to special performance of tumba francesa.
Please go to this website for more information (www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=EN&cp=CU)
Tumba francesa is very unique and special - that is the reason UNESCO has recognized as an intangible cultural heritage of world humanity. I have known about it for a while and even experienced it 15 years ago. So to have the opportunity to provide it for the students and the rest of us was exciting.
The location was right in the hood, and it was an enriching experience. We were up close and personal, with musicians and dancers. Got some great video as both Alan and I used cameras. May be some glitches but I think we will have worthy documentation. A great experience for all - be interesting to see what the students say as all but one of them left right after the performance. No communication with the performers at all. But Rebecca, the only AfrAm student in the group, stayed and really engaged with many of the performers. She, Alan, Oscar and I stayed for another couple of hours, engaged in discussion and rum. Age ranged from early 20's ( Rebecca and some of the dancers) to perro viejo aka me. At one point, the drums came back out and Rebecca was given spontaneous lessons in rumba, which she has been pursuing during her time here. Enriching experience for her.
Around 11, I had to go, dolor de espalda (backache). As Rebecca and I walked back together, who did we see in a free concert but William Vivanco, so she left for that and I trudged on in solo for the nod.
Sunday saw us up and at em for desayuno then to trova festival at 11am. I stayed till 2:30 pm and video'd a lot. Again, some very moving and exciting musical performances. Cuban trova is rooted in the vocal tradition of European traditions of troubadors and the African traditions of griots. Groups we saw ranged from duos featuring female cantantes to full blown son groups of 8-9 pieces. Folks danced and it was a fiesta a grand proportions. At 2:30 we headed to the Antonia Maceo airport for our flight back to Havana scheduled for 4:30. Well, given the amazing weekend, something had to come up to keep us in magical Santiago. The plane was coming from Haiti and ended up being 4 hours late, so we got into Havana around 10:30 and here at the residence around 11:30 after dropping the students.
What a great three days...A mi cuba.
Down to the last week and hoping to hear and see Maraca manyana. Alan has been talking about this gato since we got here so we'll see. Chaio...
Now let me back up a little as this was the fouth day in row of la musica increible...It began with our weekend trip to Santiago. This had some reflections for me as this was the initial stop on my Cuban experience fifteen years ago. Santiago is one of the oldest towns, est. in 1515. It also has some unique Africanisms, including tumba francesa..but I will get to that.
Alan and I arranged this trip for estudiantes as part of their learning about Cuban culture. We had identified Oscar Menzies via Arianna Hall of CubaNola. Linking with Oscar ended up being very important as he is so knowledgeable of cultural traditions of Santiago and is also highly regarded in the community. He was referred to as the "babalao of tumba francesa." We also found out there was a fiesta de trova happening all weekend...and I had just covered trova in class with the students,including a presentation by Alberto Faya. We arranged for a special performance of tumba francesa for them.
So we fly in on Thursday night, arriving around 10pm to drizzle. we get to hotel which is centrally located in Santiago, right across from plaza de marte. Notice touristas from Germany and other European countries. Rooms nice, even had a bed big enough for me to turn over without falling off.
Friday begins with desayuno, which is included in the package so I plan on eating hearty, hoping it will last until la cena. Afterwards, we - estudiantes, Oscar, Ismar(guide) y Mario (driver) of Havana tours, Alan and myself, head out to El Cobre to see important church as well as visit site commemorating legacy of freedom fights of the enslaved..cimarrons with sculpture by Lescay. But on the way, we stop at plaza de la revolution where we see a huge - and I mean huge - sculpture by Alberto Lescay, Cuban master artist of African ancestry, of Antonio Maceo, Cubano of African ancestry who was a great warrior in the fight for independence in late 1800s and is a national hero. The size of the work is staggering, over 80 feet in height and probably 25 to 30 feet in length and width. It shows Maceo on rearing horse, gesturing for those behind to follow him. Next to it is a large sculpture depicting machetes, which were used by enslaved Blacks in the freedom fights. This is a powerful representation of the history of the fight for freedom in Cuba that stretches back to the mid 1800's on into the late 50's with success in 1959.
We then continue on out to the country side and El Cobre, which was a site for copper mining established in the 1500's. It has a church that is revered as the home of the virgin of charity and miracles. Below is info I copied from this website (www.sacred-destinations.com/cuba/el-cobre.htm).
"The Virgin of Charity (La Virgen de la Caridad) is a miraculous statue of the Virgin Mary in the mining town of El Cobre, outside Santiago in southwest Cuba. Her shrine is the most important religious site on the entire island. A focus of intese popular devotion—not just for Catholics but also for followers of Santería and even those who aren't otherwise religious—the beloved Virgin of Charity was declared the patron saint of Cuba by the pope in 1916. "
After asking for blessings for the family and forgiveness for the horrors of the mines and enslavement, we move on the Cimarron monument, which is located on a hill opposite the cchurch and offers a spectacular view of the area. Challenging climb up, even with steps carved into the hill. Reminded me of younger times growing up in Frankfort, KY when we would climb Fort Hill for adventures too numerous and exciting to mention.
For more on the monument in Cobre, please go to this website for more info (humweb.ucsc.edu/elcobre/images_commemoration.html). This is a site that features Alberto Lescay's sculptured monument (over 40 feet with an nganga -regla de palo- at the base) commemorating the Runaway slave. It is part of a transnational commemorative project sponsored jointly by UNESCO and local entities entitled the "Route of the Slave." Linked with the Virgin of charity in the church across the valley, the spiritual connection here was very strong, not to mention the recognition of the enslaved and the strength of those who fought for their freedom and were labeled cimarrons (runaways) by the Spanish. Reminds me of the old spiritual in the USA, Oh Freedom whose lyrics are, "before I'll be a slave I'll be buried in my grave and go home to my lord and be free."
We spent some time up here and it was well worth it. Thinking on the common experiences that colonialism brought to this part of the world and have been perpetuated. How we, the people of the Americas in general and Black folks in specific, are continuing to struggle at this time but striving to rid ourselves of the long and deep legacy of imperialism, oppression, racism and assumptions of power that continued to burden us today.
And all this happens before almuerzo, so we head back to Santiago for a meal. Later we go to Fort Morro which has spectacular views of Santiago harbor and Caribbean sea. Historical significance in that the harbor was the sight of the final naval battle where USA and Cuban defeated Spain in late 1800's. After this, we head back to hotel for quiet time, but first, Alan, Oscar and I stop at Casa de la trova, which is the site the trova festival. We just miss a performace and after drinking a bottle of mineral water, I head back to hotel on foot. About a 20 minute walk through Santiago which allows me to get a better feel and to orientate myself.
Later that evening, Oscar arranges for Alan and I to attend a live performance of Eliades Ochoa, William Vivanco, and Los Jubilanos in the Salon de Son. This is a newly opened facililty where performances are taped with live audiences. In attendance are important government officials as well as significant members of Santiago community including master musicians.
The music was..ok you should know by now - off the planet. Los Jubilanos is a son group composed of older Afro Cubans (most 70 and above) under the direction of Pedro Gomez. Absolute killers..and I got their recording at the torova festival on Sunday. Opps - getting ahead of myself. They were followed by Eliades Ochoa, whom some of you may know from Beuna Vista, but he wasn't doing nothing like what I heard this night. His group featured elec keys, two tmrpts, congas, bongos, acoustic bass, rhythm guitar, and vocalist. Gorgeous music, with tight arrangements. Of course folks had begun dancing with Jubilanos and it got even busier when Ochoa hit. He is a marvelous musician and revered in Cuba, and especially in Santiago. Damn, I cannot believe how good this music is. And then out comes William Vivanco, who I heard early in my stay at Teatro Mella in Havana with a full band. He does a couple of traditional tunes with Ochoa - acknowledging the traditions of son - and the hits with a very sparse accompaniments of cajon and elec bass. what a change from what he had in Havana. He is regarded as one of the leading younger musicians of today. He sings and plays guitar...another killer.
So that is the end of the 1st full day in Santiago.
Saturday sees me going to Guantanamo with the students. Nothing outstanding ther...I think they thought they would be able to see the US camp, but no chance of that. The scenery and land during the drive was spectacular - the sierra maestra mountains, with vistas that stretched forever. The farm lands and towns like Songo, a predominantly Black town that was founded by former slaves in the late 1800s's. Also a treatment facility for those with mental health issues.
we got back around 4 and as soon as we emptied out the bus, the skies opened up with torrents of rain. Electricity in hotel went out almost immediately and stayed off for about 90 minutes.
Later, after rain stopped and sun came out, we went to special performance of tumba francesa.
Please go to this website for more information (www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=EN&cp=CU)
Tumba francesa is very unique and special - that is the reason UNESCO has recognized as an intangible cultural heritage of world humanity. I have known about it for a while and even experienced it 15 years ago. So to have the opportunity to provide it for the students and the rest of us was exciting.
The location was right in the hood, and it was an enriching experience. We were up close and personal, with musicians and dancers. Got some great video as both Alan and I used cameras. May be some glitches but I think we will have worthy documentation. A great experience for all - be interesting to see what the students say as all but one of them left right after the performance. No communication with the performers at all. But Rebecca, the only AfrAm student in the group, stayed and really engaged with many of the performers. She, Alan, Oscar and I stayed for another couple of hours, engaged in discussion and rum. Age ranged from early 20's ( Rebecca and some of the dancers) to perro viejo aka me. At one point, the drums came back out and Rebecca was given spontaneous lessons in rumba, which she has been pursuing during her time here. Enriching experience for her.
Around 11, I had to go, dolor de espalda (backache). As Rebecca and I walked back together, who did we see in a free concert but William Vivanco, so she left for that and I trudged on in solo for the nod.
Sunday saw us up and at em for desayuno then to trova festival at 11am. I stayed till 2:30 pm and video'd a lot. Again, some very moving and exciting musical performances. Cuban trova is rooted in the vocal tradition of European traditions of troubadors and the African traditions of griots. Groups we saw ranged from duos featuring female cantantes to full blown son groups of 8-9 pieces. Folks danced and it was a fiesta a grand proportions. At 2:30 we headed to the Antonia Maceo airport for our flight back to Havana scheduled for 4:30. Well, given the amazing weekend, something had to come up to keep us in magical Santiago. The plane was coming from Haiti and ended up being 4 hours late, so we got into Havana around 10:30 and here at the residence around 11:30 after dropping the students.
What a great three days...A mi cuba.
Down to the last week and hoping to hear and see Maraca manyana. Alan has been talking about this gato since we got here so we'll see. Chaio...
Monday, March 16, 2009
Pelota Reflections on La Musica de Cuba Lunes, diez y seis, marzo
Hola mi amigos y familia who are reading this. After getting Cheryl off to airport, spent yesterday with friends here looking at Cuba and Japan game in World Baseball Classic. Baseball is called pelota here - not beisbol and anything else - just pelota. Because it is Cuba, the expectation for the team to do well is heavy...to say the least. So losing to Japan resulted in some serious blues here today. But what I really want to mention is the refreshing experience of watching the game on television with NO COMMERCIALS. With the exception of the ads displayed in Petco Park in San Diego, there are no commercials between innings or anywhere else. So the time is filled with great Cuban music - Irakere's version of Stella by Starlight..youch!!!; rumba, son, boleros, cha cha cha you name it, they played it...except rap and reggaeton. All recorded music along with video replays of earlier games in the world classic and highlights of the Cuban team. Make a brother want to get up and dance!
Friday, March 13, 2009
Viernes, triente de Marzo
Well this is my first update since last Friday. The most significant thing is that Cheryl came in on Sunday and we have been experiencing Havana, via some of the things I know and then new stuff for both of us. To say it is good to have her here is an understatement. We have experienced some good music, from Bosch at the Havana Jazz Club and rumba in Callejon de Hamel last Sunday to more rumba at the UNEAC (calle diez y siete) on Wednesday and she heard changui yesterday while out with Alan.
We also did an open top bus tour of downtown Havana that was good and ended up at the Museo de La Revolucion, where we spent Wednesday morning. This museo chronicles Cuban history through the revolution of 1959. It is housed int he old presidential palace. If walls could talk....Beautiful, stately marble construction and clearly of the upper class rich folks who, from my perspective, perpetuated the European feudal system in Cuba - that's the reason they needed a revolution in 1959. The earlier ones of the late 1800's got rid of the Spain as a overseer and ended enslavement, but then the USA moved in acting in very similar imperialistic ways, which benefited the rich Cuban families who acted very much like the old Spanish lords they had vanquished. So the revolucion led by Fidel, Che, Haydee, Cienfuegos, Raul, etc. succeeded in 1959 in changing that...or at least a lot of it. No doubt that in the process a number of families and individuals had to make choices on whether go or stay in the post revolucion Cuba, and many families lost all they had when they decided to leave. Some benefits include one of the highest literacy rates in the world, an infant mortality rate that is one of the lowest in the world and free health care. But plenty of issues now, fifty years after the revolucion the average Cuban makes $17 per month and there are big issues of opportunity for careers for the youth...and one still cannot travel outside of Cuba without government approval.
On Monday, We visited the Colon cemetery (again for me as I had been there with the students). Spent more time and saw more of it with Cheryl. And was welcomed by an elderly lady who was glad to know we were from USA. This cemetery is something to see..no pun intended. Spacious and grand, with plenty of history there. The same day we walked up to calle diez y siete off the Paseo and went to a small park where there is a statue of John Lennon. Took some photos. Interesting that they have a statue of Lennon - where is the one for Duke or Louis or Aretha or Ella...oh well. Guess we should be glad that they at least recognized Lennon...I never have been a Beatles fan.
Yesterday I did a solo concert at Casa de Las Americas as a way to show our (Alan, students, Nu and me) appreciation for teh way they have embraced us for the last 3 months. The concert lasted about an hour in which I payed about 14 tunes - kind of a stream of consciousness thing that I had been working on for a couple of weeks. All worked well except the blues I did for Zenaida ( Zenaida's Azules). Just didn't hit it the way I wanted and should have. But all else was pretty much on the money. And the Casa folks really enjoyed it as did other invitees from the Cuban music community and Cheryl too.
This morning I went with the students to a briefing they asked me to set up with the US Interest section here. It is a 10 minute walk from Casa. We spent about 2 hours with some foreign service officers there. They explained their roles and the role of the US Interest in Cuba and then fielded questions from the students. It was an interesting experience to hear about our endeavors in a country where we are regarded as the enemy. Of course nothing clandestine was revealed but is is clear that there is little direct engagement between the US Interest and the Cuban government, but there is certainly some dialogue that happens via heads of states of other Latin American countries.
Cheryl was able to get a visit to a school via Caridad at Casa. This was arranged at the last minute as previous arrangements fell through with changes in Cuban upper governmental structure last week. Glad of that because that was a principal reason for her to come...along with seeing me. Will probably do another museo this afternoon and who knows what tonight - hopefully la musica. Cheryl leaves on Sunday so she will decide how to use the remaining time.
Next Thursday, we fly to Santiago for the weekend which is exciting for me as that was the beginning site of my first visit to Cuba 15 years ago. Alan found out that there is a music festival happening all weekend in Santiago so you know I am excited. Two weeks to go and then a king size bed. Adios mi amigos y la familia.
Well this is my first update since last Friday. The most significant thing is that Cheryl came in on Sunday and we have been experiencing Havana, via some of the things I know and then new stuff for both of us. To say it is good to have her here is an understatement. We have experienced some good music, from Bosch at the Havana Jazz Club and rumba in Callejon de Hamel last Sunday to more rumba at the UNEAC (calle diez y siete) on Wednesday and she heard changui yesterday while out with Alan.
We also did an open top bus tour of downtown Havana that was good and ended up at the Museo de La Revolucion, where we spent Wednesday morning. This museo chronicles Cuban history through the revolution of 1959. It is housed int he old presidential palace. If walls could talk....Beautiful, stately marble construction and clearly of the upper class rich folks who, from my perspective, perpetuated the European feudal system in Cuba - that's the reason they needed a revolution in 1959. The earlier ones of the late 1800's got rid of the Spain as a overseer and ended enslavement, but then the USA moved in acting in very similar imperialistic ways, which benefited the rich Cuban families who acted very much like the old Spanish lords they had vanquished. So the revolucion led by Fidel, Che, Haydee, Cienfuegos, Raul, etc. succeeded in 1959 in changing that...or at least a lot of it. No doubt that in the process a number of families and individuals had to make choices on whether go or stay in the post revolucion Cuba, and many families lost all they had when they decided to leave. Some benefits include one of the highest literacy rates in the world, an infant mortality rate that is one of the lowest in the world and free health care. But plenty of issues now, fifty years after the revolucion the average Cuban makes $17 per month and there are big issues of opportunity for careers for the youth...and one still cannot travel outside of Cuba without government approval.
On Monday, We visited the Colon cemetery (again for me as I had been there with the students). Spent more time and saw more of it with Cheryl. And was welcomed by an elderly lady who was glad to know we were from USA. This cemetery is something to see..no pun intended. Spacious and grand, with plenty of history there. The same day we walked up to calle diez y siete off the Paseo and went to a small park where there is a statue of John Lennon. Took some photos. Interesting that they have a statue of Lennon - where is the one for Duke or Louis or Aretha or Ella...oh well. Guess we should be glad that they at least recognized Lennon...I never have been a Beatles fan.
Yesterday I did a solo concert at Casa de Las Americas as a way to show our (Alan, students, Nu and me) appreciation for teh way they have embraced us for the last 3 months. The concert lasted about an hour in which I payed about 14 tunes - kind of a stream of consciousness thing that I had been working on for a couple of weeks. All worked well except the blues I did for Zenaida ( Zenaida's Azules). Just didn't hit it the way I wanted and should have. But all else was pretty much on the money. And the Casa folks really enjoyed it as did other invitees from the Cuban music community and Cheryl too.
This morning I went with the students to a briefing they asked me to set up with the US Interest section here. It is a 10 minute walk from Casa. We spent about 2 hours with some foreign service officers there. They explained their roles and the role of the US Interest in Cuba and then fielded questions from the students. It was an interesting experience to hear about our endeavors in a country where we are regarded as the enemy. Of course nothing clandestine was revealed but is is clear that there is little direct engagement between the US Interest and the Cuban government, but there is certainly some dialogue that happens via heads of states of other Latin American countries.
Cheryl was able to get a visit to a school via Caridad at Casa. This was arranged at the last minute as previous arrangements fell through with changes in Cuban upper governmental structure last week. Glad of that because that was a principal reason for her to come...along with seeing me. Will probably do another museo this afternoon and who knows what tonight - hopefully la musica. Cheryl leaves on Sunday so she will decide how to use the remaining time.
Next Thursday, we fly to Santiago for the weekend which is exciting for me as that was the beginning site of my first visit to Cuba 15 years ago. Alan found out that there is a music festival happening all weekend in Santiago so you know I am excited. Two weeks to go and then a king size bed. Adios mi amigos y la familia.
Friday, March 6, 2009
Viernes, Seis de Marzo
Well, have this day all to myself as Alan y estudiates are off to Cienfuegos and Trinidad till Domingo. Cheryl comes in tomorrow. This day has been devoted to getting exams graded and spending time shedding for my solo concert next Thursday. Finished grading around 2:00 and then went for a long walk and got some lunch. If anyone reading this comes to Habana in recent times and stays in the Verdado area, the place for the bomb almuerzo is La Habana Jazz Cafe in the gallery mall at the end of Paseo and calle uno: 1 block from Malecon and right across from the Hotel Melia. For $4, U get 1/2 pollo - either asado or frito, con rice and beans, a little salad of shredded beets and cabbage, and a drink. Cannot beat it for price, quantity or quality. Only available at lunch up till maybe 3pm. Plus great views of the Atlantic Ocean through large panes that could stand a serious cleaning but a good view regardless - 3 stories up so you can see forever out into the Atlantic looking north toward USA.
Spent some good time shedding this am too. Repertoire gonna include Saints, Cuban lullaby Duerme mi Negrita, Zenaida's Azules, Afro-Blue, Samira's Song, Miss Ann, Fonseca's song for Cachaito and who knows what else. The concert is next Thursday - solo soprano sax for Casa folks.
Cheryl is coming tomorrow and that will be great. We can hang for 8 days and see parts of Habana I know and parts I don't know. Glad to have her here with me. May go hear some boleros at UNEAC tomorrow after she gets in. Then to outside stuff on Sunday with rumba and guaguanco at noon, possibly classical concert honoring international dia de las mujeres at Teatro Roldan at 5 and then wrapping up with Roberto Fonseca at 11pm at Habana Jazz Club.
She will decide what, if any , we do of these possibilities. I am just the planner on this one, not the decider, even though I am lobbying heavily for Fonseca.
Gabi, mi maestro de espanol and el hijo de Hector y Mirta, has arranged with a friend of his to take all of us (Gabi, his friend and me) to and from airport to get Cheryl. Having them both should make things a lot easier than taking a cab back and forth. It is nice to have this local contact in situations such as this.
We are in the last weeks of this adventure. Three weeks from today sees us in our last three days in Habana. But plenty to happen before then, including a trip to Santiago on 3/19-22. And I have two musicians coming to the class - on March 24, Alberta Faya will present on the role of music in la revolucion and post la revolucion up to today. On St Patty's day, Sonia Perez will present on principal genres of cuban music culture with a focus on guajiro music. Her husband is Barbarito, the oud master from Buena Vista Social Club. Will let y'all know how it goes.
Oh Yeah, one of Zenaida's hijas brought in a radio last week and she keeps it on all day - which is great because I love radio and I get a chance to hear what is on the Cuban airways. Right now there is music of santeria ceremonies - sounds like regla de ocha but could be another regla such as palo. I have heard pop stuff, hip hop, older spanish songs like boleros and reggaeton...lord have mercy, reggaeton.
Das it for now - chaio.
Spent some good time shedding this am too. Repertoire gonna include Saints, Cuban lullaby Duerme mi Negrita, Zenaida's Azules, Afro-Blue, Samira's Song, Miss Ann, Fonseca's song for Cachaito and who knows what else. The concert is next Thursday - solo soprano sax for Casa folks.
Cheryl is coming tomorrow and that will be great. We can hang for 8 days and see parts of Habana I know and parts I don't know. Glad to have her here with me. May go hear some boleros at UNEAC tomorrow after she gets in. Then to outside stuff on Sunday with rumba and guaguanco at noon, possibly classical concert honoring international dia de las mujeres at Teatro Roldan at 5 and then wrapping up with Roberto Fonseca at 11pm at Habana Jazz Club.
She will decide what, if any , we do of these possibilities. I am just the planner on this one, not the decider, even though I am lobbying heavily for Fonseca.
Gabi, mi maestro de espanol and el hijo de Hector y Mirta, has arranged with a friend of his to take all of us (Gabi, his friend and me) to and from airport to get Cheryl. Having them both should make things a lot easier than taking a cab back and forth. It is nice to have this local contact in situations such as this.
We are in the last weeks of this adventure. Three weeks from today sees us in our last three days in Habana. But plenty to happen before then, including a trip to Santiago on 3/19-22. And I have two musicians coming to the class - on March 24, Alberta Faya will present on the role of music in la revolucion and post la revolucion up to today. On St Patty's day, Sonia Perez will present on principal genres of cuban music culture with a focus on guajiro music. Her husband is Barbarito, the oud master from Buena Vista Social Club. Will let y'all know how it goes.
Oh Yeah, one of Zenaida's hijas brought in a radio last week and she keeps it on all day - which is great because I love radio and I get a chance to hear what is on the Cuban airways. Right now there is music of santeria ceremonies - sounds like regla de ocha but could be another regla such as palo. I have heard pop stuff, hip hop, older spanish songs like boleros and reggaeton...lord have mercy, reggaeton.
Das it for now - chaio.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Pablo, Pedro and more
Miercoles, cuatro de Marzo
A little cool this morning. In fact weather has been like this since the big storm Sunday night. Today will see Leonel Fernández, president of the Dominican Republic, visiting Casa so that means security will be all over the place and we will probably be in lock down mode for part of the day.
At 2pm we are visiting the famous Colon cemetery in Havana known for its architectural design and resting place for the remains of some of Cuba’s most significant and important persons.
Last night, Alan and I went to La Zorra y El Cuervo, jazz club on Calle veinte y tres to hear Pablo Menendez’ group. Pablo is a guitarist of international reputation and he had a seven piece band that included a guest appearance by Yasek Manzano, the young outstanding trumpeter that I heard my 1st night in Habana, Group was very good and featured an eclectic repertoire. Instrumentation was elec. keyboardist and flutist, elec. bassist, trap dummer, congas and bata drummer, tenor saxophonista, Manzano and Pablo.
This entrance door at street level reminded me of the Village Vanguard. And of course the club was down the steps into the basement level, which reminded me of the Bohemian Caverns. It is a small club with a bar and the sound was very good. It is one of the principal spots for jazz in Havana.
This is the first live music experience since hearing Pedro Luis Ferrer last Friday at a library near the Marti Monument on Paseo. Ferrer is a well-known singer, guitarist and composer who has been somewhat censored by the government for his outspoken opinions about the condition of the Cuban people.
The scene at the library was one of great anticipation. When we arrived at 4pm, there was a line out the door into the street. There were people of all ages seeking to get into a small auditorium that seated maybe 150. Being that Alan and I were with Hector, we somehow got to near the front through his use of his photographer press credentials. Once the doors opened it was a real rush and squeeze to get in but we made it and had great seats. Plenty of folks did not get in and were not happy. Ferrer’s performance was very good, and he was accompanied by his daughter (vocals and percussion) and brother (guitar, vocals and percussion). He has a distinctive voice and is a very good guitarist. The repertoire featured his compositions, many of which were known by the audience. It is clear that he is an artist loved by many of his fellow Cubanos.
Tomorrow sees Alan and the kids headed to Cienfuegos for a weekend trip. I am staying here because Cheryl is flying in Saturday. Yes, yes, yes!
A little cool this morning. In fact weather has been like this since the big storm Sunday night. Today will see Leonel Fernández, president of the Dominican Republic, visiting Casa so that means security will be all over the place and we will probably be in lock down mode for part of the day.
At 2pm we are visiting the famous Colon cemetery in Havana known for its architectural design and resting place for the remains of some of Cuba’s most significant and important persons.
Last night, Alan and I went to La Zorra y El Cuervo, jazz club on Calle veinte y tres to hear Pablo Menendez’ group. Pablo is a guitarist of international reputation and he had a seven piece band that included a guest appearance by Yasek Manzano, the young outstanding trumpeter that I heard my 1st night in Habana, Group was very good and featured an eclectic repertoire. Instrumentation was elec. keyboardist and flutist, elec. bassist, trap dummer, congas and bata drummer, tenor saxophonista, Manzano and Pablo.
This entrance door at street level reminded me of the Village Vanguard. And of course the club was down the steps into the basement level, which reminded me of the Bohemian Caverns. It is a small club with a bar and the sound was very good. It is one of the principal spots for jazz in Havana.
This is the first live music experience since hearing Pedro Luis Ferrer last Friday at a library near the Marti Monument on Paseo. Ferrer is a well-known singer, guitarist and composer who has been somewhat censored by the government for his outspoken opinions about the condition of the Cuban people.
The scene at the library was one of great anticipation. When we arrived at 4pm, there was a line out the door into the street. There were people of all ages seeking to get into a small auditorium that seated maybe 150. Being that Alan and I were with Hector, we somehow got to near the front through his use of his photographer press credentials. Once the doors opened it was a real rush and squeeze to get in but we made it and had great seats. Plenty of folks did not get in and were not happy. Ferrer’s performance was very good, and he was accompanied by his daughter (vocals and percussion) and brother (guitar, vocals and percussion). He has a distinctive voice and is a very good guitarist. The repertoire featured his compositions, many of which were known by the audience. It is clear that he is an artist loved by many of his fellow Cubanos.
Tomorrow sees Alan and the kids headed to Cienfuegos for a weekend trip. I am staying here because Cheryl is flying in Saturday. Yes, yes, yes!
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
"The Magic Flute" Habana style
Miercoles, 25 Febrero. Yesterday, Alan and I went to the National Symphony courtesy of Erasmito Lopez, the cousin of our close friend, Danny Merida. Erasmito is a flutist with the National Symphony. We had talked with him via telephone over the weekend and he invited us to a rehearsal of Mozart's "The Magic Flute," which is being premiered here this weekend. The symphony hall is a grand old building that could use some revitalizing but is still regal. It is clear that they are "cubanizing" the production as a guiro was added in the mix. A guiro is an idiophone that has survived from the indigenous civilizations. It is the long gourd that has ridges in it. It is hand held and played with a scraper. And the presentation is being sung in espanol. The symphony had plenty musicians of color - more than I have ever seen in the USA. The cast also included significant numbers of peoples of color.
We stayed for about 90 minutes of the rehearsal, and then asked if it was possible to bring our students back for the full dress rehearsal on Friday so they could experience 21st century Cuban music culture. We are awaiting an answer...I think it is going to happen. I then told the kids about it last night so they could decide about going - I cannot make it mandatory but explained that it would be a great opportunity for them. They are to give me their answers today.
Today I am giving s short rap on "Hiphop/rap and activism" at a session arranged by Alan. It is happening at 2pm in Old Habana (Habana viejo). Will give more about this later. I am going to link some of my presentation to the legacy of music and activism in Black culture throughout the western hemisphere...from caiso traditions of Trinidad to spirituals, blues and movement music of USA Blacks. Also I am referencing Tricia Rose's new book, "The Hip Hop Wars."
Oh yeah, I am giving a solo soprano saxophone concert on March 12, 4pm at Casa de Las Americas.
We stayed for about 90 minutes of the rehearsal, and then asked if it was possible to bring our students back for the full dress rehearsal on Friday so they could experience 21st century Cuban music culture. We are awaiting an answer...I think it is going to happen. I then told the kids about it last night so they could decide about going - I cannot make it mandatory but explained that it would be a great opportunity for them. They are to give me their answers today.
Today I am giving s short rap on "Hiphop/rap and activism" at a session arranged by Alan. It is happening at 2pm in Old Habana (Habana viejo). Will give more about this later. I am going to link some of my presentation to the legacy of music and activism in Black culture throughout the western hemisphere...from caiso traditions of Trinidad to spirituals, blues and movement music of USA Blacks. Also I am referencing Tricia Rose's new book, "The Hip Hop Wars."
Oh yeah, I am giving a solo soprano saxophone concert on March 12, 4pm at Casa de Las Americas.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Domingo reflections
Domingo reflections
12:45 am Lunes, 23 Febrero
Just in from hearing Roberto Fonseca’s group at Havana Jazz Club, which is about 7 blocks from “mi casa.” They were just as wonderful as when I first heard them at the Havana Jazz Festival 2 weeks ago. In fact, they were more impressive . Outstanding musicianship that touches and communicates. Fonesca is a pianist and composer (early 30’s in age) who has this stream of creativity that flows in long lines that at times are as funky as you would ever want to be, or as pensive and sweet as you cannot stand, or as exciting and driving as you can stand. He is the real deal. The horn player, bassist and drummer were the same as the jazz festival and they are all just killers…clear that they have spent plenty of time making music together. They again performed a song in memory of Cachaito that I first heard at the jazz festival. What a beautiful piece.
After the gig, I spoke with Javier Zalba, the reed player, and hope to hear from him. It would be great to bring him in for a special session with the students. Plus I want to spend time with him and talk saxophonics. The other day, Alan bought his book on saxophone technique studies for me. On the way back to the crib tonight, night blooming jasmine enriched my senses – just came out of the dark and embraced me in sweetness.
Earlier I went to a “violin,” which was a spiritual ceremony to Oshun/Ochun that Alan knew of. This was different as they used violin, guitar and bongos rather than sanctified drums. It was located not too far from our residence and was an interesting aesthetic that I found very different from the tambors I have experienced. No batas, no African based cancion. Much of the repertoire seemed to be boleros and popular music, including a rendetion of “I Did It My Way.” Ahh Babs. I will have to talk with Alan about this to gain some insight.
Viernes, 20 Febrero, Alan and I went to Habana Jazz Club to hear Cesar Lopez, an alto saxophonist considered one of the top contemporary Cuban musicians. The club is located at the end of the Paseo, where it links with the Malecon. Two big hotels also right across from it so plenty of touristas. The club is actually located on the 2nd floor of a mall. We got there around 10:30 and were told the band went on at midnight. Also the club does not have a no-smoking policy...what a drag! - no pun intended. Ok, so that is the deal here in Habana. Admission was 10 Cuc each which included multiple drinks and food too. Ain't gonna get that in the states for such little dinero. A cuc is one of Cuba's currency and equals about $1.20. The other national currency is monedo national and it takes 24 of these to equal one Cuc.
The band begins to show up around 11:45pm. It is a six piece group with electric bass, keyboards and guitar along with traps, congas and Cesar on alto and flute. By 12:15 they launch into the music. Up tempo and exciting, with Cesar burning on the alto. Band is tight and know one another. Their style may be influenced by Irakere as well as Grover Washington and James Brown. They stay in the pocket. They do four or five tunes in about an hour, including a beautiful bolero and end with a blistering rendition of Tizol's "Caravan." AB would have loved this one.
12:45 am Lunes, 23 Febrero
Just in from hearing Roberto Fonseca’s group at Havana Jazz Club, which is about 7 blocks from “mi casa.” They were just as wonderful as when I first heard them at the Havana Jazz Festival 2 weeks ago. In fact, they were more impressive . Outstanding musicianship that touches and communicates. Fonesca is a pianist and composer (early 30’s in age) who has this stream of creativity that flows in long lines that at times are as funky as you would ever want to be, or as pensive and sweet as you cannot stand, or as exciting and driving as you can stand. He is the real deal. The horn player, bassist and drummer were the same as the jazz festival and they are all just killers…clear that they have spent plenty of time making music together. They again performed a song in memory of Cachaito that I first heard at the jazz festival. What a beautiful piece.
After the gig, I spoke with Javier Zalba, the reed player, and hope to hear from him. It would be great to bring him in for a special session with the students. Plus I want to spend time with him and talk saxophonics. The other day, Alan bought his book on saxophone technique studies for me. On the way back to the crib tonight, night blooming jasmine enriched my senses – just came out of the dark and embraced me in sweetness.
Earlier I went to a “violin,” which was a spiritual ceremony to Oshun/Ochun that Alan knew of. This was different as they used violin, guitar and bongos rather than sanctified drums. It was located not too far from our residence and was an interesting aesthetic that I found very different from the tambors I have experienced. No batas, no African based cancion. Much of the repertoire seemed to be boleros and popular music, including a rendetion of “I Did It My Way.” Ahh Babs. I will have to talk with Alan about this to gain some insight.
Viernes, 20 Febrero, Alan and I went to Habana Jazz Club to hear Cesar Lopez, an alto saxophonist considered one of the top contemporary Cuban musicians. The club is located at the end of the Paseo, where it links with the Malecon. Two big hotels also right across from it so plenty of touristas. The club is actually located on the 2nd floor of a mall. We got there around 10:30 and were told the band went on at midnight. Also the club does not have a no-smoking policy...what a drag! - no pun intended. Ok, so that is the deal here in Habana. Admission was 10 Cuc each which included multiple drinks and food too. Ain't gonna get that in the states for such little dinero. A cuc is one of Cuba's currency and equals about $1.20. The other national currency is monedo national and it takes 24 of these to equal one Cuc.
The band begins to show up around 11:45pm. It is a six piece group with electric bass, keyboards and guitar along with traps, congas and Cesar on alto and flute. By 12:15 they launch into the music. Up tempo and exciting, with Cesar burning on the alto. Band is tight and know one another. Their style may be influenced by Irakere as well as Grover Washington and James Brown. They stay in the pocket. They do four or five tunes in about an hour, including a beautiful bolero and end with a blistering rendition of Tizol's "Caravan." AB would have loved this one.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Glimpse at Cuban Health Care
Viernes, viente Febrero
Just came back from a visit to a pre natal house that is for expecting mothers and their unborn who are at risk due to various health issues. It is part of the Cuban national system of health care that provides necessary support for good pre-natal care. As a result this system that was initiated post la revolucion, the infant mortality rate in Cuba is very low.
The location was a building in the neighborhood that had been converted in the last decade to serve this purpose. There were twelve ladies living there, all of relatively young age. The program is designed to identify at risk pregnant women at local levels, provide subsequent medical screening and analysis and then follow up with comprehensive pre natal medical support, which includes counseling. Identification happens through local doctors and nurses. Pregnant women identified as at risk are linked to a support system that stays in place throughout their pregnancy and continues post natal. Counseling and pre natal prep includes nutrition, breast feeding, etc.
Should any need more advanced medical support, they can be moved to residences in urban areas. Typical hospital stay for uncomplicated birth is 3 days; 5 days for cesarean.
Cost for service is zero. All health care in Cuba is free.
Just came back from a visit to a pre natal house that is for expecting mothers and their unborn who are at risk due to various health issues. It is part of the Cuban national system of health care that provides necessary support for good pre-natal care. As a result this system that was initiated post la revolucion, the infant mortality rate in Cuba is very low.
The location was a building in the neighborhood that had been converted in the last decade to serve this purpose. There were twelve ladies living there, all of relatively young age. The program is designed to identify at risk pregnant women at local levels, provide subsequent medical screening and analysis and then follow up with comprehensive pre natal medical support, which includes counseling. Identification happens through local doctors and nurses. Pregnant women identified as at risk are linked to a support system that stays in place throughout their pregnancy and continues post natal. Counseling and pre natal prep includes nutrition, breast feeding, etc.
Should any need more advanced medical support, they can be moved to residences in urban areas. Typical hospital stay for uncomplicated birth is 3 days; 5 days for cesarean.
Cost for service is zero. All health care in Cuba is free.
Monday, February 16, 2009
Lunes, diez y seis, Febrero
Lunes, diez y seis, Febrero
Today is a bright and sunny one with birds chirping out the window as I write this stuff at noon time. Busy weekend with Havana Jazz again on Sabado at Teatro Roldan where we heard two outstanding performances by Cuban musicians, one being a pianist whose name I do not have now but will add later after I get the 411 from Alan. The other was the Habana Sax Quartet – baritone, alto, tenor and soprano/alto, and drummer. How many times can I write about having one of the greatest musical experiences ever…this was another on. The virtuosity on the saxes was incredible!!!! And then the arrangements of Summertime, Caravan and another Cuban song…tight, smooth, challenging, well executed and soooooo musical. Now add the fact that these cats also danced rumba and other steps while playing and they also kept clave. The drummer was in the pocket all the way. From sweet to ferocious, they are the real thing. Hope to get ot hear them again before we leave. Got seis semanas so should be possible.
Domingo, we went to la playa about 20 minutes out of Havana courtesy of Arianna Hall of Cuba-Nola who had a bus that took us out and dropped us off. She has brought a group here from USA for Jazz Festival. Nice beach, with beautiful views. Sunny too. Water a little chilly but once I was in, great. Stayed about tres horas, got some sun and then back. We ( Alan, Hector and I) changed and then went to dinner in the Chinese section of Habana for dinner again with Arianna…and she paid. Alan is on the board of Cuba NOLA so his friend Hector and I were also invited. Interesting section of Habana I had not seen, On the back side of the Capitol building. After the meal, we had to walk to the capitol to get a taxi back and it was interesting seeing kids play soccer and baseball on the grounds and steps of the capitol. Won’t see that in Beacon Hill or Frankfort, KY where I am from.
Later last night, hooked up with Cheryl and Tarah via skype which is always nice. Let me know how much I miss home – like I needed a reminder. Great to “see” Cheryl as Tarah has a Mac with a camera.
Today, Lunes, have afternoon meeting with UNEAC and some NU folks who are in town trying to establish more possibilities with Cuba. Then probably dinner tonight with same group. Begin teaching tomorrow…can’t wait.
Got to study for my espanol class this afternoon...struggling with it but have not thrown in the towel.
Oh yeah, I hope to do a solo sax concert for Casa the week Cheryl is here. More to come on that.
Paz, Big D
Today is a bright and sunny one with birds chirping out the window as I write this stuff at noon time. Busy weekend with Havana Jazz again on Sabado at Teatro Roldan where we heard two outstanding performances by Cuban musicians, one being a pianist whose name I do not have now but will add later after I get the 411 from Alan. The other was the Habana Sax Quartet – baritone, alto, tenor and soprano/alto, and drummer. How many times can I write about having one of the greatest musical experiences ever…this was another on. The virtuosity on the saxes was incredible!!!! And then the arrangements of Summertime, Caravan and another Cuban song…tight, smooth, challenging, well executed and soooooo musical. Now add the fact that these cats also danced rumba and other steps while playing and they also kept clave. The drummer was in the pocket all the way. From sweet to ferocious, they are the real thing. Hope to get ot hear them again before we leave. Got seis semanas so should be possible.
Domingo, we went to la playa about 20 minutes out of Havana courtesy of Arianna Hall of Cuba-Nola who had a bus that took us out and dropped us off. She has brought a group here from USA for Jazz Festival. Nice beach, with beautiful views. Sunny too. Water a little chilly but once I was in, great. Stayed about tres horas, got some sun and then back. We ( Alan, Hector and I) changed and then went to dinner in the Chinese section of Habana for dinner again with Arianna…and she paid. Alan is on the board of Cuba NOLA so his friend Hector and I were also invited. Interesting section of Habana I had not seen, On the back side of the Capitol building. After the meal, we had to walk to the capitol to get a taxi back and it was interesting seeing kids play soccer and baseball on the grounds and steps of the capitol. Won’t see that in Beacon Hill or Frankfort, KY where I am from.
Later last night, hooked up with Cheryl and Tarah via skype which is always nice. Let me know how much I miss home – like I needed a reminder. Great to “see” Cheryl as Tarah has a Mac with a camera.
Today, Lunes, have afternoon meeting with UNEAC and some NU folks who are in town trying to establish more possibilities with Cuba. Then probably dinner tonight with same group. Begin teaching tomorrow…can’t wait.
Got to study for my espanol class this afternoon...struggling with it but have not thrown in the towel.
Oh yeah, I hope to do a solo sax concert for Casa the week Cheryl is here. More to come on that.
Paz, Big D
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Musicians with Fonseca
An update from last night's musical experience. The musicians with Robert Fonseca were Ramses Rodriguez on drums, Omar Gonzales on bass and Javier Zalba on reeds and woodwinds. My colleague, Alan West-Duran, just came in with some cds by these artists so he gets all the credit.
If you can find recordings by any of these musicians, get them. Particularly one by Zalba called BaritonCha.
If you can find recordings by any of these musicians, get them. Particularly one by Zalba called BaritonCha.
Sabado, quatorce febrero - Valentine’s Day
Reflections on Havana Jazz Festival
Two nights down and one to go
Well, after being blessed with the opportunity to go to the Havana Jazz Festival opening on Jueves with Chucho Valdes and then following up with the Viernes concert last night at Teatro Roldan, you can believe that la musica is alive and well and thriving here in Cuba.
Chucho Valdes began the festival with one of the greatest performances of music I have ever witnessed. It is clear he is a national hero her and loved by Cubans of all ages, sexes, skin colors and walks of life. Teatro Mella was packed to the gills and our seats were exquisite’, definitely worth the almost tres horas I waited in line on Martes to get them…1st level center seats about 1/3 back from the stage. Chucho had four aerophonists – two doubling on trumpets and flugelhorns; one on tenor sax and one doubling on alto and soprano sax. The bassist played upright and electric; one trap drummer; one conga player who handled six; one bata drummer; one timbales player; and three vocalists. All are virtuosos.
Once the performance began, there were no intermissions, which meant over two hours of a well planned and executed musical excursion of some of the songs made popular by Irakere two decades ago as well as new arrangements by Chucho. The repertoire included Chucho’s arrangements of classic Cuban tunes as well as jazz standards such as “Stella by Starlight.” All the solos were filled with integrity and often brilliance. About 2/3rds of the way through, the female vocalists came out. One was Chucho’s sister, and another was Omara Portuondo, the vocalist from the Buena Vista Social Club who must be in her mid 80’s now. I don’t know who the 3rd vocalists was and there was no program. But she was a killer too. The crowd knew all of them and erupted in applause when each appeared.
When they finished, we brought them back for one more and then they were gone. We left the teatro buzzing and better for having heard such great music. Alan and I met Rick from LA and we all walked over to the Hotel Melia Cohiba to wind down and talk about music and other stuff. One nice thing is that the residence where Alan and I stay is close by and easy walking distance.
Earlier in the day, I hooked up with Cuba/Nola, an organization run by Ariana Hall. Among other things, she brings folks from New Orleans to Havana for the jazz festival. Alan is on the board and in conversations with Ariana, hooked it up so I could go with the group to a visit to the Superior Institute of Art and Culture, a national school of creative and expressive arts located in the Miramar section of Havana. Here we heard young folks of high school age who have outstanding musical talent. They have been studying music since their early years and because of their accomplishments, have been selected to continue their musical studies in the Institute. They are the cream of the crop so to speak and represent the Cuban government’s understanding of the importance of creative and expressive arts and culture in daily life and the commitment necessary to ensure the continued development of such.
On Viernes, Casa de Las Americas arranged for the NU students to visit to the National Museum of Art and what a visit it was. We spent 3 hours – you actually need a couple of days to see and digest all they have – with a guided tour of Cuban visual artists’ work spanning the 18th century to today. Important and, at times, stunning work that is a great national treasure and people from all over the world come to it.
After that, I came back and worked on my espanol, as there is an exam scheduled for Sabado a doce. At 3pm, Alan and I took a shuttle to the Havana Book Fair being held for the 18th year. Location was at the old forts across the bay from Havana that have killer views back into the city. In case y’all don’t know, Cuba has one of the highest literacy levels in the world. So the fair was packed with Cubans of all ages looking to see what new was out and ready to devour it. Reading is knowledge is the popular slogan and they take it seriously. Maybe we can learn from them in this capacity. Alan gave a nice presentation on hip hop in Cuba and we returned to the crib at 7, where we ate and sat for minute before the 9pm concert of night 2 Havana Jazz Festival.
The site was Teatro Roldan, 4 blocks down and two blocks over – loving our location more and more!!!!! The night featured three young Cuban pianists/keyboardists and one from France. Rolando Luna opened with a quartet (bass, drums and percussion). Nice set – he got some killer chops - but things never really clicked. Piano out of tune and sound lacked depth.
Next was Harold Lopez-Nussa, nephew of Ernan Lopez-Nussa, a Cuban music master. Harold’s brother, whose name I did not get, was on drums and there was a great acoustic bassist too. The results were outstanding as they really understand the art of the piano trio. Great arrangements, with impressive use of dynamics, shading and coloring. I could listen to them all night.
Then to Jacques Briard, French pianist with red shoes who did solo piano. His set was a nice aesthetic shift in the program. He played very well, featuring mostly original works.
The closer was Roberto Fonseca quartet – bass, drums and reeds. And they were the killer diller. Fonseca is a real personality who interacts with the audience, uses his voice in the music and ain’t nothing he can’t do with the keyboards. Swing like crazy, give you all the funk you can stand and more, then shift to stunning beauty and sweetness. He played electronic keyboards – a Kurzweil, which was great because by this time the out of tune Steinway was really struggling after having been played by three virtuosos. One of the songs was a tribute to Cachaito, the bassist (Buena Vista Social Club) who died earlier this week. A very heartfelt expression of love. We didn’t get the names of the other musicians in the band – again no program – but they were all killers and I mean KILLERS.
So around 12:30 this morning we left Teatro Roldan with a feeling of joy and happiness as well as astonishment too, given the level of musicianship we witnessed. And round three tonight, as we will return to the Teatro Roldan for another evening of Havana Jazz Festival Concerts.
Happy Valentine’s Day y’all!!!!!!!
More to come. Over and out.
El Gran Padre D
Reflections on Havana Jazz Festival
Two nights down and one to go
Well, after being blessed with the opportunity to go to the Havana Jazz Festival opening on Jueves with Chucho Valdes and then following up with the Viernes concert last night at Teatro Roldan, you can believe that la musica is alive and well and thriving here in Cuba.
Chucho Valdes began the festival with one of the greatest performances of music I have ever witnessed. It is clear he is a national hero her and loved by Cubans of all ages, sexes, skin colors and walks of life. Teatro Mella was packed to the gills and our seats were exquisite’, definitely worth the almost tres horas I waited in line on Martes to get them…1st level center seats about 1/3 back from the stage. Chucho had four aerophonists – two doubling on trumpets and flugelhorns; one on tenor sax and one doubling on alto and soprano sax. The bassist played upright and electric; one trap drummer; one conga player who handled six; one bata drummer; one timbales player; and three vocalists. All are virtuosos.
Once the performance began, there were no intermissions, which meant over two hours of a well planned and executed musical excursion of some of the songs made popular by Irakere two decades ago as well as new arrangements by Chucho. The repertoire included Chucho’s arrangements of classic Cuban tunes as well as jazz standards such as “Stella by Starlight.” All the solos were filled with integrity and often brilliance. About 2/3rds of the way through, the female vocalists came out. One was Chucho’s sister, and another was Omara Portuondo, the vocalist from the Buena Vista Social Club who must be in her mid 80’s now. I don’t know who the 3rd vocalists was and there was no program. But she was a killer too. The crowd knew all of them and erupted in applause when each appeared.
When they finished, we brought them back for one more and then they were gone. We left the teatro buzzing and better for having heard such great music. Alan and I met Rick from LA and we all walked over to the Hotel Melia Cohiba to wind down and talk about music and other stuff. One nice thing is that the residence where Alan and I stay is close by and easy walking distance.
Earlier in the day, I hooked up with Cuba/Nola, an organization run by Ariana Hall. Among other things, she brings folks from New Orleans to Havana for the jazz festival. Alan is on the board and in conversations with Ariana, hooked it up so I could go with the group to a visit to the Superior Institute of Art and Culture, a national school of creative and expressive arts located in the Miramar section of Havana. Here we heard young folks of high school age who have outstanding musical talent. They have been studying music since their early years and because of their accomplishments, have been selected to continue their musical studies in the Institute. They are the cream of the crop so to speak and represent the Cuban government’s understanding of the importance of creative and expressive arts and culture in daily life and the commitment necessary to ensure the continued development of such.
On Viernes, Casa de Las Americas arranged for the NU students to visit to the National Museum of Art and what a visit it was. We spent 3 hours – you actually need a couple of days to see and digest all they have – with a guided tour of Cuban visual artists’ work spanning the 18th century to today. Important and, at times, stunning work that is a great national treasure and people from all over the world come to it.
After that, I came back and worked on my espanol, as there is an exam scheduled for Sabado a doce. At 3pm, Alan and I took a shuttle to the Havana Book Fair being held for the 18th year. Location was at the old forts across the bay from Havana that have killer views back into the city. In case y’all don’t know, Cuba has one of the highest literacy levels in the world. So the fair was packed with Cubans of all ages looking to see what new was out and ready to devour it. Reading is knowledge is the popular slogan and they take it seriously. Maybe we can learn from them in this capacity. Alan gave a nice presentation on hip hop in Cuba and we returned to the crib at 7, where we ate and sat for minute before the 9pm concert of night 2 Havana Jazz Festival.
The site was Teatro Roldan, 4 blocks down and two blocks over – loving our location more and more!!!!! The night featured three young Cuban pianists/keyboardists and one from France. Rolando Luna opened with a quartet (bass, drums and percussion). Nice set – he got some killer chops - but things never really clicked. Piano out of tune and sound lacked depth.
Next was Harold Lopez-Nussa, nephew of Ernan Lopez-Nussa, a Cuban music master. Harold’s brother, whose name I did not get, was on drums and there was a great acoustic bassist too. The results were outstanding as they really understand the art of the piano trio. Great arrangements, with impressive use of dynamics, shading and coloring. I could listen to them all night.
Then to Jacques Briard, French pianist with red shoes who did solo piano. His set was a nice aesthetic shift in the program. He played very well, featuring mostly original works.
The closer was Roberto Fonseca quartet – bass, drums and reeds. And they were the killer diller. Fonseca is a real personality who interacts with the audience, uses his voice in the music and ain’t nothing he can’t do with the keyboards. Swing like crazy, give you all the funk you can stand and more, then shift to stunning beauty and sweetness. He played electronic keyboards – a Kurzweil, which was great because by this time the out of tune Steinway was really struggling after having been played by three virtuosos. One of the songs was a tribute to Cachaito, the bassist (Buena Vista Social Club) who died earlier this week. A very heartfelt expression of love. We didn’t get the names of the other musicians in the band – again no program – but they were all killers and I mean KILLERS.
So around 12:30 this morning we left Teatro Roldan with a feeling of joy and happiness as well as astonishment too, given the level of musicianship we witnessed. And round three tonight, as we will return to the Teatro Roldan for another evening of Havana Jazz Festival Concerts.
Happy Valentine’s Day y’all!!!!!!!
More to come. Over and out.
El Gran Padre D
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
For the Love of Chucho y la musica
It is 5:40 pm in Havana and I just came back from spending four + hours to score tickets for the Havana Jazz Festival, which begins jueves of this week. The first part was easy - getting tickets for Viernes y Sabado at the Teatro Roldan for concerts that feature 4 to 5 groups each night. Took maybe 15 minutes with my broken espanol. The killer was getting tickets for Chucho Valdes who opens the festival Jueves in Teatro Mella, which is just a few blocks from the Teatro Roldan. Had to wait in line from 1:45 to 4:40. This was a lesson in Cuban aesthetic and patience. No high tech computer generated ticket center here - one asere who deals one on one. Crowd stretched down Linea Blvd - probably about 100 + at one time. At the beginning I was in the front 25% but after we had to shift from the front of the teatro to the sidewalk I was suddenly in the last 50%. Wasn't ready for the Cubano shift and positioning dance. But all was so cool. Nobody lost their temper or got to screaming or pushing. Folks went out of line to rap and talk and laugh, some even went to get a sandwich and then came back...and their place in line was held. Even the manicero came through...been looking for him! Try that s..t in Estados Unidos...been some real butt kickin at the least - maybe someone would get cut and/or shot. And to think this was in the middle of the afternoon to get the chance to hear Chucho Valdes. It spoke volumes about how music is so much a part of the culture here and how it is valued. So on Thursday evening of this week, y'all think of me around 9pm when, God willing, I will be sitting in Teatro Mella listening and seeing Chucho Valdes. For those of you who don't know who Chucho is, better get on it. That's it for now. Over and out from Havana
PS re Matanzas
Just wanted to clarify that the Matanzas "resort" we stayed in was actually more like a motel of 2 star quality. It is in a great setting and right next to the Tropicana. The beds were not good and there were cucarachas around, but the service was ok. The name of the "resort" was the Calimar, in case anyone is interested.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Weekend in Matanzas Province
Lunes, Ocho Febrero, 2009
Matanzas Weekend
On Thursday afternoon, 2/4, we took an arranged weekend bus trip to the province of Matanzas, about 90 kilometers from Havana. The city of Matanzas is known as the Athens of Cuba and the home of both the danzon and the rumba. It sits on a bay that opens to the Atlantic Ocean. Matanzas is also the name of the province. Alan had arranged the trip and we stayed at the Caminao Hotel, a small resort right outside of the city and next to the Tropicana Nightclub. The beautiful Caminar river winds around behind the resort, with mangrove trees growing right down to the river’s edge. Our trip guide is Edolso, a very personable guy who was more than competent.
The temperature was very chilly all day and dropped to 44 that evening - which is actually cold by Cuban standards…mine too. And who would have thought to bring overcoats or sweaters? Not me. Also it is important for me to let y’all know that many of the establishments and houses in Cuba do not have heat. Add to that the fact that except for our rooms (no heat either), the resort is almost all open space…so chilly willy!
After arriving and checking in, we go to the Tropicana Nightclub, which is a replica of the larger, more famous one in Havana. We are to have dinner there and then a show. I was skeptical about staying because it is cold but I am committed to staying for the dinner – no other choice on that. The Tropicana is all open air, so no relief from the cold and there is also a breeze…damn. Along with us, there were about 80 to 100 tourists also in attendance, many in sweaters and coats and hats too. After dinner, which you had to eat fast or be left with cold food, the mc of the show came out in a winter knit hat, gloves and a winter coat! He said it was the coldest he had ever experienced. But in the true spirit of the entertainer, the show must go on. He sang some songs to warm up the audience and then introduced the show, a full blown extravanga featuring live band and over 30 dancers and singers. I took the following from the Tropicana Matanzas website because it is a good description of what we experienced.
“The show included musical genres such as bolero, mambo, son and the unique Afro-Cuban rhythms, artistically combined to create an unforgettable night in the cozy atmosphere of the Caribbean island.”
Even though it was not a cozy night by any means, the show was outstanding, and given the cold, more impressive. It ran about two hours and thank the Lordy that the dinner included two bottles of rum. Alan and I went through one during the show – trying to stay warm. Only partially successful.
So then back to the chilly room and some nod. Dreamed of a heat wave, but no such luck. Viernes was just as chilly. After breakfast, we went into Matanzas to visit the Pharmaceutical Museum, a one of a kind experience. Located right off the main plaza in Matanzas, it is located in the home of two doctors from the 1800’s. It has been maintained in wonderful condition and features all the instruments and equipment used by the doctors to create and treat patients. It also contains the prescriptions and formulas they used for treatment, many all natural. Today, pharmacy and medical students from all over the world come to study the prescriptions and formulas. Incredibe!
We leave and go to Matanzas Seminary, the only ecumenical seminary in Cuba. It was established in 1946 and sits right in the neighborhood, on a hill with an incredible view of Matanzas city and harbor I took some video and photos too. We meet with Daniel Montoya, professor of practical theology, who gives us the history of the seminary, including how it has adapted theologies as necessary with the various changes in Cuban life. He says Cuban people are coming back to the churches now, with over 80% being newcomers. He feels this reflects the change that is happening in Cuban society. We then go out and see the incredible view.
From here we go to a park high above Matanzas for lunch, which also has great views but it is cold and breezy. We eat at Café Monseratte and it takes them over 2 hours to feed all of us. Of course the café is open air so... After lunch, we head to Vigia, a publisher of books that are all handmade. It was established in 1985 in response to the poor quality of publications done by the Cuban government. The poor quality refers to the actual product, not the content. All the books at Vigia are real special as each is individually designed and the handmade. The handmade version is then printed in limited editions. I buy a book on Cuban musician Jose White. Vigia is located in the section where Matanzas was originally founded, on a site where the San Juan river flows into the bay. Matanzas now has a population of around 80,000.
After this we head back to the resort for some down time, then back into Matanzas for dinner at a restaurant which is right around the corner from Vigia.
Sabado comes with a slight increase in temperature but still chilly. Today we head out at 9am to Jovellanos and Jaguey Grande, two smaller towns in the province. Alan’s purpose is to give us some experiences outside of the city of Matanzas. In Jovellanos, we visit a small studio that exhibits some sculpture of a local artist. We also visit a bookstore where we find a four-volume edition on Cuban music history that Alan buys. He knows the author and is excited about the purchase. Later we learn that the books are out of print. I buy a couple of cds for the incredible price of .50 each. Then back into the bus to Jaguey Grande. As we drive through the countryside, Edolso gives us important commentary on what we see, ranging from orange and mango groves to secondary schools for agriculture to an type of bush that has invaded much of Cuba and is destroying farm land. It seems that the bush is so strong, it is damn near impossible to eradicate it. We also see soldiers going through maneuvers. We drive though small towns where the streets are busy with families out as it is Sabado. It is important to note that pedestrians do not have the right of way at all in Cuba. Cars, buses, motorcycles and trucks rule so those walking have to be very aware.
We arrive at Jaguey Grande around 11:30. This is a small town that played a central role in the revolution. Our guides are Humberto, local historian and Abel Gonzalez Fagundo, award winning poet. Both are residents of Jaguey Grande. We learn that Fidel used this town as a base for troops, supplies and treatment of wounded soldiers. The town is proud of its history in la revolucion. There is a beautiful square with statues of Marti, Maceo and one of mothers who gave their lives and their children to the revolution. We also learn that the town took a major blow from a hurricane in the early 1990’s and is still recovering.
There is a medical school here also with students from Pakistan and China. After the history lesson, we dine at local restaurant and then students find a local place where we get pastels (cake) that is delicious. They buy a whole one for consumption later on. We then go a walking tour that includes visit to Children’s Library that has been recognized by UNICEF. We see los ninos y ninas using the library. From there we move around town, seeing new projects to replace water pipes and a visit to the small church. We wrap up with a visit to a local wine maker, where I purchase some wine made from the fruit of the cashew tree.
Then back to the bus for the return trip and dinner at in Matanzas. There is an option to go dancing after dinner but Alan and I opt out. My back is tired – mattresses aint great – and I need to do some reading. Find out later that some of the students went dancing to the wee hours at a club that is located right across the road in the Tropicana.
We leave Sunday morning and head for Varadero, the famous beach and resort community. Since I was here quince anos ago, it has really been developed with over 50 hotels now. We spend 5 hours here, but too cold for me to go swimming. Alan and I sit on the beach and enjoy the sound of the ocean. It warms up by noon – into high 60’s maybe. We put on sun screen for protection and I actually brown up a little.
We leave at 3pm and head back to Havana where we arrive around 5.
Good to be back to our Havana home – Zenaida is glad to see us and we her too. Find out later Alan left his cane and I left my glasses on the bus, but telephone calls to the bus driver and Edolso end up locating them and we will pick up later today. Whew…
I begin one on one Spanish Lessons today with Gabi. I am motivated. Also Havana Jazz Festival begins Thursday.
Mo later.
Matanzas Weekend
On Thursday afternoon, 2/4, we took an arranged weekend bus trip to the province of Matanzas, about 90 kilometers from Havana. The city of Matanzas is known as the Athens of Cuba and the home of both the danzon and the rumba. It sits on a bay that opens to the Atlantic Ocean. Matanzas is also the name of the province. Alan had arranged the trip and we stayed at the Caminao Hotel, a small resort right outside of the city and next to the Tropicana Nightclub. The beautiful Caminar river winds around behind the resort, with mangrove trees growing right down to the river’s edge. Our trip guide is Edolso, a very personable guy who was more than competent.
The temperature was very chilly all day and dropped to 44 that evening - which is actually cold by Cuban standards…mine too. And who would have thought to bring overcoats or sweaters? Not me. Also it is important for me to let y’all know that many of the establishments and houses in Cuba do not have heat. Add to that the fact that except for our rooms (no heat either), the resort is almost all open space…so chilly willy!
After arriving and checking in, we go to the Tropicana Nightclub, which is a replica of the larger, more famous one in Havana. We are to have dinner there and then a show. I was skeptical about staying because it is cold but I am committed to staying for the dinner – no other choice on that. The Tropicana is all open air, so no relief from the cold and there is also a breeze…damn. Along with us, there were about 80 to 100 tourists also in attendance, many in sweaters and coats and hats too. After dinner, which you had to eat fast or be left with cold food, the mc of the show came out in a winter knit hat, gloves and a winter coat! He said it was the coldest he had ever experienced. But in the true spirit of the entertainer, the show must go on. He sang some songs to warm up the audience and then introduced the show, a full blown extravanga featuring live band and over 30 dancers and singers. I took the following from the Tropicana Matanzas website because it is a good description of what we experienced.
“The show included musical genres such as bolero, mambo, son and the unique Afro-Cuban rhythms, artistically combined to create an unforgettable night in the cozy atmosphere of the Caribbean island.”
Even though it was not a cozy night by any means, the show was outstanding, and given the cold, more impressive. It ran about two hours and thank the Lordy that the dinner included two bottles of rum. Alan and I went through one during the show – trying to stay warm. Only partially successful.
So then back to the chilly room and some nod. Dreamed of a heat wave, but no such luck. Viernes was just as chilly. After breakfast, we went into Matanzas to visit the Pharmaceutical Museum, a one of a kind experience. Located right off the main plaza in Matanzas, it is located in the home of two doctors from the 1800’s. It has been maintained in wonderful condition and features all the instruments and equipment used by the doctors to create and treat patients. It also contains the prescriptions and formulas they used for treatment, many all natural. Today, pharmacy and medical students from all over the world come to study the prescriptions and formulas. Incredibe!
We leave and go to Matanzas Seminary, the only ecumenical seminary in Cuba. It was established in 1946 and sits right in the neighborhood, on a hill with an incredible view of Matanzas city and harbor I took some video and photos too. We meet with Daniel Montoya, professor of practical theology, who gives us the history of the seminary, including how it has adapted theologies as necessary with the various changes in Cuban life. He says Cuban people are coming back to the churches now, with over 80% being newcomers. He feels this reflects the change that is happening in Cuban society. We then go out and see the incredible view.
From here we go to a park high above Matanzas for lunch, which also has great views but it is cold and breezy. We eat at Café Monseratte and it takes them over 2 hours to feed all of us. Of course the café is open air so... After lunch, we head to Vigia, a publisher of books that are all handmade. It was established in 1985 in response to the poor quality of publications done by the Cuban government. The poor quality refers to the actual product, not the content. All the books at Vigia are real special as each is individually designed and the handmade. The handmade version is then printed in limited editions. I buy a book on Cuban musician Jose White. Vigia is located in the section where Matanzas was originally founded, on a site where the San Juan river flows into the bay. Matanzas now has a population of around 80,000.
After this we head back to the resort for some down time, then back into Matanzas for dinner at a restaurant which is right around the corner from Vigia.
Sabado comes with a slight increase in temperature but still chilly. Today we head out at 9am to Jovellanos and Jaguey Grande, two smaller towns in the province. Alan’s purpose is to give us some experiences outside of the city of Matanzas. In Jovellanos, we visit a small studio that exhibits some sculpture of a local artist. We also visit a bookstore where we find a four-volume edition on Cuban music history that Alan buys. He knows the author and is excited about the purchase. Later we learn that the books are out of print. I buy a couple of cds for the incredible price of .50 each. Then back into the bus to Jaguey Grande. As we drive through the countryside, Edolso gives us important commentary on what we see, ranging from orange and mango groves to secondary schools for agriculture to an type of bush that has invaded much of Cuba and is destroying farm land. It seems that the bush is so strong, it is damn near impossible to eradicate it. We also see soldiers going through maneuvers. We drive though small towns where the streets are busy with families out as it is Sabado. It is important to note that pedestrians do not have the right of way at all in Cuba. Cars, buses, motorcycles and trucks rule so those walking have to be very aware.
We arrive at Jaguey Grande around 11:30. This is a small town that played a central role in the revolution. Our guides are Humberto, local historian and Abel Gonzalez Fagundo, award winning poet. Both are residents of Jaguey Grande. We learn that Fidel used this town as a base for troops, supplies and treatment of wounded soldiers. The town is proud of its history in la revolucion. There is a beautiful square with statues of Marti, Maceo and one of mothers who gave their lives and their children to the revolution. We also learn that the town took a major blow from a hurricane in the early 1990’s and is still recovering.
There is a medical school here also with students from Pakistan and China. After the history lesson, we dine at local restaurant and then students find a local place where we get pastels (cake) that is delicious. They buy a whole one for consumption later on. We then go a walking tour that includes visit to Children’s Library that has been recognized by UNICEF. We see los ninos y ninas using the library. From there we move around town, seeing new projects to replace water pipes and a visit to the small church. We wrap up with a visit to a local wine maker, where I purchase some wine made from the fruit of the cashew tree.
Then back to the bus for the return trip and dinner at in Matanzas. There is an option to go dancing after dinner but Alan and I opt out. My back is tired – mattresses aint great – and I need to do some reading. Find out later that some of the students went dancing to the wee hours at a club that is located right across the road in the Tropicana.
We leave Sunday morning and head for Varadero, the famous beach and resort community. Since I was here quince anos ago, it has really been developed with over 50 hotels now. We spend 5 hours here, but too cold for me to go swimming. Alan and I sit on the beach and enjoy the sound of the ocean. It warms up by noon – into high 60’s maybe. We put on sun screen for protection and I actually brown up a little.
We leave at 3pm and head back to Havana where we arrive around 5.
Good to be back to our Havana home – Zenaida is glad to see us and we her too. Find out later Alan left his cane and I left my glasses on the bus, but telephone calls to the bus driver and Edolso end up locating them and we will pick up later today. Whew…
I begin one on one Spanish Lessons today with Gabi. I am motivated. Also Havana Jazz Festival begins Thursday.
Mo later.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Miercoles, quarto Febrero
Cool in Havana this morning, with strong winds. Heavy rain Monday night, which brought in this temperature change. Monday featured meeting jurados por Premio Literario Casa de las Americas – I may have mentioned this before. Los jurados included such luminaries as Carmen Boullosa ( Mexico), Carlos Noguera (Venezuela), Hector Tizon (Argentina), Beatriz Helena Robledo (Colombia), Teresa Cardenas (Cuba), and Roberto Marquez (Puerto Rico – EE.UU).
Had almuerzo at local restaurant where cost is very little – based on national money of Cuba, which is much lower than CUC. So a meal for two – pollo con fried arroz y ensalada plus dos cervezas -cost $5!!! Will be eating here as the food was good and it is only two blocks from our residence.
In my efforts to get some fluency con espanol, I talked with Gabriel (Gabi), Hector’s ijo, about tutoring me in the language. He will come by tomorrow (martes) and we will see if things can work out. I got some good time in on rosetta stone Spanish language program and soprano too today. Then had la cena con estudiantes in their residence – about siete blocks down from us – have a penthouse suite on the 12th floor overlooking the Malecon and Atlantic Ocean. It was good sitting and talking with them.
Came back and sat up with Alan looking at videos and talking about music and culture and Caribbean history. He is a walking history book.
On Martes, spent time with rosetta stone and soprano again. Casa technician came over and tried to get SKYPE working but no good. I need Michel, who was the 1st one that configured my laptop, but he is not back till Lunes. Took a walk over to Teatro Mella, named for founder of Cuban communist party, to see about tickets for William Vivano, popular Cuban musician who is giving concert Tuesday night, but sold out. Alan thinks students may be able to hook us up…we will see. Notice that UNESCO has a site here as well as national ballet and national symphony sites too. And the national escuela de musica is just a couple of blocks away. Will have to investigate all this in the coming weeks. And the Havana Jazz Festival begins next week…more to come about that.
Gabi shows up on time and we talk about him giving me Spanish lessons and me giving him English lessons. We agree to begin next week, 3 days weekly, for the remainder of the month – lunes, miercoles y jueves from 4:30 to 5:30. I hope that his tutoring along with rosetta stone will help me get some fluency. Alan agrees.
After dinner, we go around to Theater Mella and meet students who have hooked us up for the Vivano concert – costs us $2 each to get in! Place is packed, mostly with younger folks. Vivano is a vocalist and guitarist. Band includes, keyboards, traps, bongos and congas, tablas, elec guitar, elec bass, 3 horns (2 tmpts and 1 sax), and two singers. They do about 100 minute performance, many songs clearly known by the audience who engage in singing along and dancing too. We are back in the crib by eleven. Weather is definitely cool and very windy now. Hit the sack round midnight after talking about upcoming trip with estudiantes to Matanzas from Thursday through Sunday. Should be exciting and informative. Matanzas is sometimes called the Athens of Cuba.
Cool in Havana this morning, with strong winds. Heavy rain Monday night, which brought in this temperature change. Monday featured meeting jurados por Premio Literario Casa de las Americas – I may have mentioned this before. Los jurados included such luminaries as Carmen Boullosa ( Mexico), Carlos Noguera (Venezuela), Hector Tizon (Argentina), Beatriz Helena Robledo (Colombia), Teresa Cardenas (Cuba), and Roberto Marquez (Puerto Rico – EE.UU).
Had almuerzo at local restaurant where cost is very little – based on national money of Cuba, which is much lower than CUC. So a meal for two – pollo con fried arroz y ensalada plus dos cervezas -cost $5!!! Will be eating here as the food was good and it is only two blocks from our residence.
In my efforts to get some fluency con espanol, I talked with Gabriel (Gabi), Hector’s ijo, about tutoring me in the language. He will come by tomorrow (martes) and we will see if things can work out. I got some good time in on rosetta stone Spanish language program and soprano too today. Then had la cena con estudiantes in their residence – about siete blocks down from us – have a penthouse suite on the 12th floor overlooking the Malecon and Atlantic Ocean. It was good sitting and talking with them.
Came back and sat up with Alan looking at videos and talking about music and culture and Caribbean history. He is a walking history book.
On Martes, spent time with rosetta stone and soprano again. Casa technician came over and tried to get SKYPE working but no good. I need Michel, who was the 1st one that configured my laptop, but he is not back till Lunes. Took a walk over to Teatro Mella, named for founder of Cuban communist party, to see about tickets for William Vivano, popular Cuban musician who is giving concert Tuesday night, but sold out. Alan thinks students may be able to hook us up…we will see. Notice that UNESCO has a site here as well as national ballet and national symphony sites too. And the national escuela de musica is just a couple of blocks away. Will have to investigate all this in the coming weeks. And the Havana Jazz Festival begins next week…more to come about that.
Gabi shows up on time and we talk about him giving me Spanish lessons and me giving him English lessons. We agree to begin next week, 3 days weekly, for the remainder of the month – lunes, miercoles y jueves from 4:30 to 5:30. I hope that his tutoring along with rosetta stone will help me get some fluency. Alan agrees.
After dinner, we go around to Theater Mella and meet students who have hooked us up for the Vivano concert – costs us $2 each to get in! Place is packed, mostly with younger folks. Vivano is a vocalist and guitarist. Band includes, keyboards, traps, bongos and congas, tablas, elec guitar, elec bass, 3 horns (2 tmpts and 1 sax), and two singers. They do about 100 minute performance, many songs clearly known by the audience who engage in singing along and dancing too. We are back in the crib by eleven. Weather is definitely cool and very windy now. Hit the sack round midnight after talking about upcoming trip with estudiantes to Matanzas from Thursday through Sunday. Should be exciting and informative. Matanzas is sometimes called the Athens of Cuba.
Monday, February 2, 2009
Weekend Reflections
Spent the weekend celebrating Alan’s 56th birthday. On Sabado, we hooked up with his good amigo, Hector Delgado, an outstanding photographer. Hector drove us into downtown Havana where we spent the afternoon walking through the streets, seeing all the sites, including the Revolucion Museum, the old Catholic churches built by the Spanish colonizers in the 1500’s – incredible structures rich in history, stone paved streets, mucho plazas, many with signs or banners announcing the 50th anniversary of la revolucion or simple “revolucion siempre”. There were large posters of Fidel all over, carrying the insignia of one of the companies helping to sponsor the celebration – which is one clear sign of change in 50 years. Street vendors are hawking revolucion stuff all around. We go by the revolucion museo, which has tanks, missiles and the Granma boat on which Fidel and others sailed into Cuba from Mexico back in 1959. In a plaza near the Cathedral of St Francis of Assisi, there are booksellers with a vast array of old and new works covering a plethora of topics – architecture, history, food, arts, culture, geography, cartoons, travel – you name it, they have it. All purchases can be bargained and Alan buys a book on the revolucion that he has been seeking for years.
We have lunch at a restaurant that features musicians playing everything from pop to flamenco dancing. Stilt walkers go by outside, dressed in colorful outfits with drummers leading the way.
Food is good and very reasonable. The local currency is CUC, good only in Cuba. At this time, $100 Canadian money, which I brought with me, gets $71.75 in CUC. Us dollar gets even less.
After plenty of walking and looking and seeing, we return to Hector’s car which is right across from the Capitol building, which is larger than the one in DC. Then off the Hector’s apartment which is just 4 blocks from where we are staying. I meet his wife, Merta, son Gabbi and Merta’s papa, who is 94. We spend the evening there, having arroz con pollo and flan. We engage in conversation, with Alan bridging as my espanol is still out to lunch and Hector speaks minimal English. It is a good evening and good end to a long day. By the time we get to our living space, Alan is cincuenta y seis anos y uno dia.
On Domingo, Febrero 1, we go to see Victor Fowler, the authority on Cuban film who is teaching as course for the NU program at Casa. He and Alan are good friends and I meet his esposa, hija y hijo. We spend time there looking at clips of old Cuban films pre la revolucion. Interesting images, particularly of who was and was not included. We then head to Alan’s Tia Gloria and her family. They are very happy to see him and we stay in to the evening, with dinner of parvo, salad, moros y christianos (black beans and rice), and finished with a delicious cake. Around Nuevo, they drop is back at the President Hotel, 4 blocks from our residence, where Alan meets with Ariana Hall of CUBA/NOLA, an organization she started that specializes in activities and endeavors linking Cuba and New Orleans.
As we head back to our residence, Alan tells me that tomorrow, lunes, we will go to Casa in the morning for the opening of Premio Literario Casa de Las Americas, where those selected as jurors will be presented. It will be a big time thing with many of the greatest scholars, journalists, artists, writers, and poets of Latin American present. I tell him that is exciting and that I also will begin carving out 3-4 hours per day to work on my espanol and to get my sax chops back up. What an exciting and interesting premiero quatro dias en Havana.
We have lunch at a restaurant that features musicians playing everything from pop to flamenco dancing. Stilt walkers go by outside, dressed in colorful outfits with drummers leading the way.
Food is good and very reasonable. The local currency is CUC, good only in Cuba. At this time, $100 Canadian money, which I brought with me, gets $71.75 in CUC. Us dollar gets even less.
After plenty of walking and looking and seeing, we return to Hector’s car which is right across from the Capitol building, which is larger than the one in DC. Then off the Hector’s apartment which is just 4 blocks from where we are staying. I meet his wife, Merta, son Gabbi and Merta’s papa, who is 94. We spend the evening there, having arroz con pollo and flan. We engage in conversation, with Alan bridging as my espanol is still out to lunch and Hector speaks minimal English. It is a good evening and good end to a long day. By the time we get to our living space, Alan is cincuenta y seis anos y uno dia.
On Domingo, Febrero 1, we go to see Victor Fowler, the authority on Cuban film who is teaching as course for the NU program at Casa. He and Alan are good friends and I meet his esposa, hija y hijo. We spend time there looking at clips of old Cuban films pre la revolucion. Interesting images, particularly of who was and was not included. We then head to Alan’s Tia Gloria and her family. They are very happy to see him and we stay in to the evening, with dinner of parvo, salad, moros y christianos (black beans and rice), and finished with a delicious cake. Around Nuevo, they drop is back at the President Hotel, 4 blocks from our residence, where Alan meets with Ariana Hall of CUBA/NOLA, an organization she started that specializes in activities and endeavors linking Cuba and New Orleans.
As we head back to our residence, Alan tells me that tomorrow, lunes, we will go to Casa in the morning for the opening of Premio Literario Casa de Las Americas, where those selected as jurors will be presented. It will be a big time thing with many of the greatest scholars, journalists, artists, writers, and poets of Latin American present. I tell him that is exciting and that I also will begin carving out 3-4 hours per day to work on my espanol and to get my sax chops back up. What an exciting and interesting premiero quatro dias en Havana.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
day one in Havana Jan 30th
1/30 blog
sittin at gate g2 in Miami airport, concourse G Gulfstream, waiting for 1:30 flight to Havana. Decided to touch base with the music via I tunes on my laptop after listening to small talk of other passengers waiting. Started with Nascimento’s “Bridges” then to Trane and Bags for “Bebop” and now floating along with “Ole,” with Freddie and Eric and all the rest sounding like yesterday, today and tomorrow. We might have to bring this back for JCMC #32. Which just morphed into “De Donde Viene Usted” (Son montuno) by Groupo Rumores Campesinos. Ahhh, mi cuba.
Flight to Cuba is on 737 which is about 1/ 2 full. Takes 45 minutes and we land in Havana at Jose Marti airport. Brings back some memories of my first visit 15 years ago. As we go into the airport, I see a woman holding a sign with my name. I introduce myself and she moves me quickly through the customs and takes me to a VIP lounge where I stayed while they get my bags. I later learn that Casa de Las Americas and my colleague, Alan West Duran, arranged this. Casa is the institution that is hosting Alan and myself.
Once I get my bags, I am escorted out where I meet Alan and Felix. We load my bags and head into Havana. I forgot how big Havana is. Many signs celebrating the 50th anniversary of la revolucion. We arrive at Casa, which is in Vedado area of Havana, right off the Malecon. We are staying in a building right next to Casa – on 3rd floor where we each have our own room and share a bathroom. Clean and nice – noting fancy but very comfortable. Alan introduces me to Zenaida, and older Afro Cubana who lives here also and handles cooking, cleaning, etc.
After dropping my bags, Michael of Casa comes up and configures my laptop so I can have internet access. Then off with Alan to a tambor in which an initiate is joining via Ochun. We take a cab to what Alan says is one of the poorer neighborhoods of Havana (Key West) – all Black – and the drums and singing lead us to the tambor. Powerful stuff here, contemporary manifestations of old African religions – regal de ocha (Yoruba). 3 batas and singer plus 15- 20 members dancing and singing, in a house right on the street. There is an altar to Ochun, with food offerings all around it. Her color is yellow. We are there for about 2 hours during which time the initiate, a young Afro-Cuban man, goes through the initiation, including becoming Ochun, being dressed as her, and dancing and greeting participants. Powerful stuff, with various drum patterns and incantations, accompanied by group dancing and call and response singing. Organic, functional beliefs from long ago that are still manifesting in contemporary times.
I meet Alan’s padrino and madrina – he joined the religion in summer of 07. Also 7 of the Northeastern students are there, observing and learning. After the tambor, we go his madrina’s home, where he calls a cab and we then head to old Havana to hear young trumpet player names Mnzano who Alan says studied with Wynton. They are performing in galllery area of hotel where Hemmingway stayed…can’t remember name – will get better as I become more familiar. All young musicians and Manzano has some Wyntonsims for sure in his command of the trumpet and flugelhorn. Quintet plus singer and even tap dancers who do a rendition of When The Saints Go Marching In.
After this we take cab back to our residence where Zenaida has prepared dinner. It is about 9pm when we get back. What a full day – hit the ground running. I set p time to talk with Cheryl via Skype at 10 pm but is it not working right down here…what a drag. I will ask Casa folks to check it out tomorrow.
Hit the sack around midnight, listening to the sounds of wind and rain off the Malecon – which is a long boulevard right next to the Atlantic Ocean.
Gonna work on my espanol tomorrow with the Rosetta stone – thanks Samira – and look into getting some tutoring also. Also tomorrow is Alan's 56th birthday.
sittin at gate g2 in Miami airport, concourse G Gulfstream, waiting for 1:30 flight to Havana. Decided to touch base with the music via I tunes on my laptop after listening to small talk of other passengers waiting. Started with Nascimento’s “Bridges” then to Trane and Bags for “Bebop” and now floating along with “Ole,” with Freddie and Eric and all the rest sounding like yesterday, today and tomorrow. We might have to bring this back for JCMC #32. Which just morphed into “De Donde Viene Usted” (Son montuno) by Groupo Rumores Campesinos. Ahhh, mi cuba.
Flight to Cuba is on 737 which is about 1/ 2 full. Takes 45 minutes and we land in Havana at Jose Marti airport. Brings back some memories of my first visit 15 years ago. As we go into the airport, I see a woman holding a sign with my name. I introduce myself and she moves me quickly through the customs and takes me to a VIP lounge where I stayed while they get my bags. I later learn that Casa de Las Americas and my colleague, Alan West Duran, arranged this. Casa is the institution that is hosting Alan and myself.
Once I get my bags, I am escorted out where I meet Alan and Felix. We load my bags and head into Havana. I forgot how big Havana is. Many signs celebrating the 50th anniversary of la revolucion. We arrive at Casa, which is in Vedado area of Havana, right off the Malecon. We are staying in a building right next to Casa – on 3rd floor where we each have our own room and share a bathroom. Clean and nice – noting fancy but very comfortable. Alan introduces me to Zenaida, and older Afro Cubana who lives here also and handles cooking, cleaning, etc.
After dropping my bags, Michael of Casa comes up and configures my laptop so I can have internet access. Then off with Alan to a tambor in which an initiate is joining via Ochun. We take a cab to what Alan says is one of the poorer neighborhoods of Havana (Key West) – all Black – and the drums and singing lead us to the tambor. Powerful stuff here, contemporary manifestations of old African religions – regal de ocha (Yoruba). 3 batas and singer plus 15- 20 members dancing and singing, in a house right on the street. There is an altar to Ochun, with food offerings all around it. Her color is yellow. We are there for about 2 hours during which time the initiate, a young Afro-Cuban man, goes through the initiation, including becoming Ochun, being dressed as her, and dancing and greeting participants. Powerful stuff, with various drum patterns and incantations, accompanied by group dancing and call and response singing. Organic, functional beliefs from long ago that are still manifesting in contemporary times.
I meet Alan’s padrino and madrina – he joined the religion in summer of 07. Also 7 of the Northeastern students are there, observing and learning. After the tambor, we go his madrina’s home, where he calls a cab and we then head to old Havana to hear young trumpet player names Mnzano who Alan says studied with Wynton. They are performing in galllery area of hotel where Hemmingway stayed…can’t remember name – will get better as I become more familiar. All young musicians and Manzano has some Wyntonsims for sure in his command of the trumpet and flugelhorn. Quintet plus singer and even tap dancers who do a rendition of When The Saints Go Marching In.
After this we take cab back to our residence where Zenaida has prepared dinner. It is about 9pm when we get back. What a full day – hit the ground running. I set p time to talk with Cheryl via Skype at 10 pm but is it not working right down here…what a drag. I will ask Casa folks to check it out tomorrow.
Hit the sack around midnight, listening to the sounds of wind and rain off the Malecon – which is a long boulevard right next to the Atlantic Ocean.
Gonna work on my espanol tomorrow with the Rosetta stone – thanks Samira – and look into getting some tutoring also. Also tomorrow is Alan's 56th birthday.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Teaching in Cuba
Friday Jan 30: Well this is my 1st blog of my Cuba trip. For those who don't know I am in Cuba teaching for Northeastern's International Study Abroad Program from Jan 29 to March 29. I am teaching a course on Music of Latin America and the Caribbean with a specific focus on Cuban music culture. I am teaching Northeastern students in Cuba and will be joining them later today along with my colleague Alan West-Duran. As of right now I am still in Miami because I missed the flight to Cuba yesterday and there is only one via the airlines we are using - Gulfstream. Thankfully Cheryl put me in touch with some close friends, the Meridas. Judy Merida came with Nuri, and they took me out to a wonderful meal at a Cuban restaurant, where we talked and laughed about old and new times.
I stayed at a Crown Plaza near the airport last night and am headed back to the airport this am - have to be there at 9am for a 1pm flight. Don't ask me why so early but given my experiences yesterday, I will be on time. Danny Merida, Judy's husband, gave me the contact info on his cousin, Erasmito Lopez, who is a flutist with the National Symphony and I hope to meet him and possibly bring him to class.
So that's it for this morning. Oh yeah, many many thanks to Omrao for encouraging me to do a blog and to set it up for me. Muchas Gracias gigante O.
I stayed at a Crown Plaza near the airport last night and am headed back to the airport this am - have to be there at 9am for a 1pm flight. Don't ask me why so early but given my experiences yesterday, I will be on time. Danny Merida, Judy's husband, gave me the contact info on his cousin, Erasmito Lopez, who is a flutist with the National Symphony and I hope to meet him and possibly bring him to class.
So that's it for this morning. Oh yeah, many many thanks to Omrao for encouraging me to do a blog and to set it up for me. Muchas Gracias gigante O.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
What do you think Big Ski?
Welcome to CUBA!!!
Here's what a post looks like. I don't have any good pictures to include but I'm sure you will...
Later Big Ski!!!
BTW - you can delete this.
Here's what a post looks like. I don't have any good pictures to include but I'm sure you will...
Later Big Ski!!!
BTW - you can delete this.
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