Weekend in Matanzas Province

Lunes, Ocho Febrero, 2009

Matanzas Weekend

On Thursday afternoon, 2/4, we took an arranged weekend bus trip to the province of Matanzas, about 90 kilometers from Havana. The city of Matanzas is known as the Athens of Cuba and the home of both the danzon and the rumba. It sits on a bay that opens to the Atlantic Ocean. Matanzas is also the name of the province. Alan had arranged the trip and we stayed at the Caminao Hotel, a small resort right outside of the city and next to the Tropicana Nightclub. The beautiful Caminar river winds around behind the resort, with mangrove trees growing right down to the river’s edge. Our trip guide is Edolso, a very personable guy who was more than competent.

The temperature was very chilly all day and dropped to 44 that evening - which is actually cold by Cuban standards…mine too. And who would have thought to bring overcoats or sweaters? Not me. Also it is important for me to let y’all know that many of the establishments and houses in Cuba do not have heat. Add to that the fact that except for our rooms (no heat either), the resort is almost all open space…so chilly willy!

After arriving and checking in, we go to the Tropicana Nightclub, which is a replica of the larger, more famous one in Havana. We are to have dinner there and then a show. I was skeptical about staying because it is cold but I am committed to staying for the dinner – no other choice on that. The Tropicana is all open air, so no relief from the cold and there is also a breeze…damn. Along with us, there were about 80 to 100 tourists also in attendance, many in sweaters and coats and hats too. After dinner, which you had to eat fast or be left with cold food, the mc of the show came out in a winter knit hat, gloves and a winter coat! He said it was the coldest he had ever experienced. But in the true spirit of the entertainer, the show must go on. He sang some songs to warm up the audience and then introduced the show, a full blown extravanga featuring live band and over 30 dancers and singers. I took the following from the Tropicana Matanzas website because it is a good description of what we experienced.

“The show included musical genres such as bolero, mambo, son and the unique Afro-Cuban rhythms, artistically combined to create an unforgettable night in the cozy atmosphere of the Caribbean island.”

Even though it was not a cozy night by any means, the show was outstanding, and given the cold, more impressive. It ran about two hours and thank the Lordy that the dinner included two bottles of rum. Alan and I went through one during the show – trying to stay warm. Only partially successful.

So then back to the chilly room and some nod. Dreamed of a heat wave, but no such luck. Viernes was just as chilly. After breakfast, we went into Matanzas to visit the Pharmaceutical Museum, a one of a kind experience. Located right off the main plaza in Matanzas, it is located in the home of two doctors from the 1800’s. It has been maintained in wonderful condition and features all the instruments and equipment used by the doctors to create and treat patients. It also contains the prescriptions and formulas they used for treatment, many all natural. Today, pharmacy and medical students from all over the world come to study the prescriptions and formulas. Incredibe!

We leave and go to Matanzas Seminary, the only ecumenical seminary in Cuba. It was established in 1946 and sits right in the neighborhood, on a hill with an incredible view of Matanzas city and harbor I took some video and photos too. We meet with Daniel Montoya, professor of practical theology, who gives us the history of the seminary, including how it has adapted theologies as necessary with the various changes in Cuban life. He says Cuban people are coming back to the churches now, with over 80% being newcomers. He feels this reflects the change that is happening in Cuban society. We then go out and see the incredible view.

From here we go to a park high above Matanzas for lunch, which also has great views but it is cold and breezy. We eat at Café Monseratte and it takes them over 2 hours to feed all of us. Of course the café is open air so... After lunch, we head to Vigia, a publisher of books that are all handmade. It was established in 1985 in response to the poor quality of publications done by the Cuban government. The poor quality refers to the actual product, not the content. All the books at Vigia are real special as each is individually designed and the handmade. The handmade version is then printed in limited editions. I buy a book on Cuban musician Jose White. Vigia is located in the section where Matanzas was originally founded, on a site where the San Juan river flows into the bay. Matanzas now has a population of around 80,000.

After this we head back to the resort for some down time, then back into Matanzas for dinner at a restaurant which is right around the corner from Vigia.

Sabado comes with a slight increase in temperature but still chilly. Today we head out at 9am to Jovellanos and Jaguey Grande, two smaller towns in the province. Alan’s purpose is to give us some experiences outside of the city of Matanzas. In Jovellanos, we visit a small studio that exhibits some sculpture of a local artist. We also visit a bookstore where we find a four-volume edition on Cuban music history that Alan buys. He knows the author and is excited about the purchase. Later we learn that the books are out of print. I buy a couple of cds for the incredible price of .50 each. Then back into the bus to Jaguey Grande. As we drive through the countryside, Edolso gives us important commentary on what we see, ranging from orange and mango groves to secondary schools for agriculture to an type of bush that has invaded much of Cuba and is destroying farm land. It seems that the bush is so strong, it is damn near impossible to eradicate it. We also see soldiers going through maneuvers. We drive though small towns where the streets are busy with families out as it is Sabado. It is important to note that pedestrians do not have the right of way at all in Cuba. Cars, buses, motorcycles and trucks rule so those walking have to be very aware.

We arrive at Jaguey Grande around 11:30. This is a small town that played a central role in the revolution. Our guides are Humberto, local historian and Abel Gonzalez Fagundo, award winning poet. Both are residents of Jaguey Grande. We learn that Fidel used this town as a base for troops, supplies and treatment of wounded soldiers. The town is proud of its history in la revolucion. There is a beautiful square with statues of Marti, Maceo and one of mothers who gave their lives and their children to the revolution. We also learn that the town took a major blow from a hurricane in the early 1990’s and is still recovering.

There is a medical school here also with students from Pakistan and China. After the history lesson, we dine at local restaurant and then students find a local place where we get pastels (cake) that is delicious. They buy a whole one for consumption later on. We then go a walking tour that includes visit to Children’s Library that has been recognized by UNICEF. We see los ninos y ninas using the library. From there we move around town, seeing new projects to replace water pipes and a visit to the small church. We wrap up with a visit to a local wine maker, where I purchase some wine made from the fruit of the cashew tree.

Then back to the bus for the return trip and dinner at in Matanzas. There is an option to go dancing after dinner but Alan and I opt out. My back is tired – mattresses aint great – and I need to do some reading. Find out later that some of the students went dancing to the wee hours at a club that is located right across the road in the Tropicana.

We leave Sunday morning and head for Varadero, the famous beach and resort community. Since I was here quince anos ago, it has really been developed with over 50 hotels now. We spend 5 hours here, but too cold for me to go swimming. Alan and I sit on the beach and enjoy the sound of the ocean. It warms up by noon – into high 60’s maybe. We put on sun screen for protection and I actually brown up a little.
We leave at 3pm and head back to Havana where we arrive around 5.

Good to be back to our Havana home – Zenaida is glad to see us and we her too. Find out later Alan left his cane and I left my glasses on the bus, but telephone calls to the bus driver and Edolso end up locating them and we will pick up later today. Whew…

I begin one on one Spanish Lessons today with Gabi. I am motivated. Also Havana Jazz Festival begins Thursday.

Mo later.