Sabado, the last full day in Havana as we fly out tomorrow, via Miami and hopefully into Boston round midnite. Yesterday I went to central Havana and dropped off some photo prints that our good friend, Danny Merida, sent via Cheryl for his cousin Erasmito. Erasmito is a flutist with the symphony here. After that, I did some tourista stuff that I had not done, including walking around the capitol, up and down the Prado and on into Barrio Chine, taking photos all the way.
Then I sat in a plaza waiting for the bus and talked with folks in my very limited and broken Spanish. Most were curious about who I was and why I was here. An older Afro-Cuban man told me in English, as he passed by, that he was not sure he was happy about me being in his country. Nothing threatening, just a passing comment, and worthy of acknowledging. I asked him why, but he just kept on moving. Another lady was an elementary school teacher in playas de este. She teaches espanol to grades 1 thru five. She wanted to know why I was here and was curious about what our students are studying.
Then onto the bus and back to Verdado, where I picked up a couple of cds and had pizza at Hotel El Presidente. right down the street from where I stay. Ran into a group of US men there dressed in baseball uniforms, some of which were dusty from playing. I asked them what they were up to and found out they come to play baseball aka pelota here - with similar cubans - a type of good will via deportes. Some have been coming for multiple years. Nice to see.
I forgot to mention Oscar Valdez at Havana Jazz Cafe on Wednesday night. Alan and I went as we had seen him advertised all during the time we have been here so... It was an interesting set with Valdez on batas and chequeres and vocals, a conga drummer of Japanese ancestry playing 3 congas, a trap drummer, elec. bass, elec. keys and reed man on flute and tenor. This was another good band, with tight arrangements. Featured a beautiful song for Yemanya as well as WoodynYou by Diz and another bop classic that I cannot remember the title. along with a version of "Walkin". This was our last time at Havana Jazz Club and it has served us well, with outstanding performances, reasonable prices and great location - 6 blocks away.
Last night, went to Alan's Titi Gloria for a good home cooked meal. Got in here around 11:30, poco cansado but in time enough to skype with Cheryl.
Hoy sees me packing up and then headed out to consider possible cd purchases. Down to the last few Cuc ( Cuban money) so will have to be selective and looking for the killer deals. Egrem -major Cuban label- has store a couple of blocks away in the Teatro Roldan. Have heard plenty of great stuff and know some specific musicians whose music I am seeking. Glad I waited to the end rather than jumping in too fast..not that I haven't bought anything. At 5 pm, I go to UNEAC via an invitation by Alberto Faya, one of the founders to the Nuevo Trova here post la revolucion and a real leader in the music community. He sings, composes, plays guitar, and has radio and television shows. I met him through Alan and had him come to class last week and present on the trova tradition as related to the revolution and today's time. I like him very much and we had an almost immediate click. His knowledge and understanding of how music serves to unify and strengthen people in times of change is impressive.
So he invited me to a session where newly recruited young teachers of 7th 8th and 9th grades are interfacing with musicians to talk about integrating music into the curriculum. There will also be a chance to play, so I am taking my horn. After that, Alan and I are taking Zenaida, aka La Reina Madre, out for dinner. Just a small token of our appreciation of the care she has given us at the Casa residence where we stay. I will probably head to La Zorra & El Cuervo to hear Yasek Manzano, the young trumpet lion. In fact, we may play some before as Faya said he would probably be at the UNEAC. So that is the plan for hoy. Tomorrow we are picked up at 11am to airport for 2:30 pm flight to Miami and then 8:30pm flight to Boston. Maybe I can catch some of the NCAA Div 1 College Basketball finals between flights.
Later I will write my reflections on this trip. But even now, I need to thank Omrao for encouraging me to do this blog. It has been very beneficial for me to be able to share my experiences with those of you who read it. Cuba is a daily challenge because so many here have so little, and if you take the time to pay attention, you can see that it is wearing on the people. When you come in as a visitor, you plug in at a different level. Cubans know you must have some resources and expect you to shar them. So if you go for a meal with a Cuban, you pay. Same if you ask someone out for a drink, etc. One learns quickly that asking two or three Cuban friends out for a night can be very expensive. And please habla espanol. I have made it thru with my pathetic Spanish and Alan's patience but one really needs to be fluent with language to interact with Cuban culture.
I can say that Cubans love and respect for music and dance is unique and somewhat special in these days of what I consider excessive homogeneity of music via globalization. Rumba, changui, son, timba, punto guajiro, danzon and the other Cuban genres are alive and well here. Rap here is not about bitches and hoes and glitz and glamor...it is more about social consciousness and issues facing youth., racial as well as gender. But Reggaeton is exerting some serious power that has some folks concerned about the future of traditional Cuban music. Time will tell, but from what I have heard in live settings, master musicians like Ochoa, Maraca, Eva Grinan and Chucho Valdes will ensure that the music continues to grown and evolve. And then there are the young ones who are being developed as I write. La Musica Cubana in the 21st century is really something. I have experienced it in many setting and locations, from concert halls to classrooms, the radio and tv, to religious and spiritual contexts, and in the streets. What a blessing....
7pm: Ok I just came back from UNEAC session with Faya and Yasek Manzano, where we played and discussed improvisation. It was attended by UNEAC members from the surrounding community and the purpose is to re-establish community involvement in the arts, as things have waned over the past few years. Faya is at the center of this revitalization. Yasek has studied with Wynton and Hargrove so you know he plays real good. Add to that his understanding of his own Cuban traditions and incorporating them in the music and it is something special. We did some blues as well as spontaneous improv and I will probably go hear him tonight at La Zorra at 11pm. The blessing continues....
ps on Sunday, 3/29 @ 7:30am. Did not go see Yazek last night...too tired so stayed in and rapped with Alan about effectiveness of this initial study abroad in Cuba.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
La Musica Reflections Santiago and mo.. 3/24/09 - 5 days left
Well all I can say is that Cuba must be the music center for the western hemisphere because last night at Teatro Mella, Orlando Valle (aka Maraca) y su orquestra played some of the best music I have ever heard anywhere. And the variety was increible! He is a flute virtuoso and had other virtuosos with him as they presented the final concert of a national tour...so they were tight and exciting. Add to this his bringing in a group of young musicians, Los Originalitis de Manzanillos - 10 - 14 years old - who are mastering the tradition and also played outstanding. Then there were the guests artists, including Guillerme Rubalcaba, Gonzalo's padre - a master pianist himself, and then there was Yorumi, Maracas' hermano and a master vocalist in his own right. The finale being a performance by Yoruba Andabo, a professional rumba group who guaguanco'd right off the planet. Maracas' band was 3 trumpets, tenor sax, baritone sax, trombone, congas, traps, elec bass. elec kybds, guitar, 2 singers/dancers, and himself on flute (c and alto). When the rumba group came out they had traditional percussion including the cajon and tumberdoras. The whole teatro was up and dancing, and yes azucar, me too!!!! Aiiyyeeee...
Now let me back up a little as this was the fouth day in row of la musica increible...It began with our weekend trip to Santiago. This had some reflections for me as this was the initial stop on my Cuban experience fifteen years ago. Santiago is one of the oldest towns, est. in 1515. It also has some unique Africanisms, including tumba francesa..but I will get to that.
Alan and I arranged this trip for estudiantes as part of their learning about Cuban culture. We had identified Oscar Menzies via Arianna Hall of CubaNola. Linking with Oscar ended up being very important as he is so knowledgeable of cultural traditions of Santiago and is also highly regarded in the community. He was referred to as the "babalao of tumba francesa." We also found out there was a fiesta de trova happening all weekend...and I had just covered trova in class with the students,including a presentation by Alberto Faya. We arranged for a special performance of tumba francesa for them.
So we fly in on Thursday night, arriving around 10pm to drizzle. we get to hotel which is centrally located in Santiago, right across from plaza de marte. Notice touristas from Germany and other European countries. Rooms nice, even had a bed big enough for me to turn over without falling off.
Friday begins with desayuno, which is included in the package so I plan on eating hearty, hoping it will last until la cena. Afterwards, we - estudiantes, Oscar, Ismar(guide) y Mario (driver) of Havana tours, Alan and myself, head out to El Cobre to see important church as well as visit site commemorating legacy of freedom fights of the enslaved..cimarrons with sculpture by Lescay. But on the way, we stop at plaza de la revolution where we see a huge - and I mean huge - sculpture by Alberto Lescay, Cuban master artist of African ancestry, of Antonio Maceo, Cubano of African ancestry who was a great warrior in the fight for independence in late 1800s and is a national hero. The size of the work is staggering, over 80 feet in height and probably 25 to 30 feet in length and width. It shows Maceo on rearing horse, gesturing for those behind to follow him. Next to it is a large sculpture depicting machetes, which were used by enslaved Blacks in the freedom fights. This is a powerful representation of the history of the fight for freedom in Cuba that stretches back to the mid 1800's on into the late 50's with success in 1959.
We then continue on out to the country side and El Cobre, which was a site for copper mining established in the 1500's. It has a church that is revered as the home of the virgin of charity and miracles. Below is info I copied from this website (www.sacred-destinations.com/cuba/el-cobre.htm).
After asking for blessings for the family and forgiveness for the horrors of the mines and enslavement, we move on the Cimarron monument, which is located on a hill opposite the cchurch and offers a spectacular view of the area. Challenging climb up, even with steps carved into the hill. Reminded me of younger times growing up in Frankfort, KY when we would climb Fort Hill for adventures too numerous and exciting to mention.
For more on the monument in Cobre, please go to this website for more info (humweb.ucsc.edu/elcobre/images_commemoration.html). This is a site that features Alberto Lescay's sculptured monument (over 40 feet with an nganga -regla de palo- at the base) commemorating the Runaway slave. It is part of a transnational commemorative project sponsored jointly by UNESCO and local entities entitled the "Route of the Slave." Linked with the Virgin of charity in the church across the valley, the spiritual connection here was very strong, not to mention the recognition of the enslaved and the strength of those who fought for their freedom and were labeled cimarrons (runaways) by the Spanish. Reminds me of the old spiritual in the USA, Oh Freedom whose lyrics are, "before I'll be a slave I'll be buried in my grave and go home to my lord and be free."
And all this happens before almuerzo, so we head back to Santiago for a meal. Later we go to Fort Morro which has spectacular views of Santiago harbor and Caribbean sea. Historical significance in that the harbor was the sight of the final naval battle where USA and Cuban defeated Spain in late 1800's. After this, we head back to hotel for quiet time, but first, Alan, Oscar and I stop at Casa de la trova, which is the site the trova festival. We just miss a performace and after drinking a bottle of mineral water, I head back to hotel on foot. About a 20 minute walk through Santiago which allows me to get a better feel and to orientate myself.
Later that evening, Oscar arranges for Alan and I to attend a live performance of Eliades Ochoa, William Vivanco, and Los Jubilanos in the Salon de Son. This is a newly opened facililty where performances are taped with live audiences. In attendance are important government officials as well as significant members of Santiago community including master musicians.
The music was..ok you should know by now - off the planet. Los Jubilanos is a son group composed of older Afro Cubans (most 70 and above) under the direction of Pedro Gomez. Absolute killers..and I got their recording at the torova festival on Sunday. Opps - getting ahead of myself. They were followed by Eliades Ochoa, whom some of you may know from Beuna Vista, but he wasn't doing nothing like what I heard this night. His group featured elec keys, two tmrpts, congas, bongos, acoustic bass, rhythm guitar, and vocalist. Gorgeous music, with tight arrangements. Of course folks had begun dancing with Jubilanos and it got even busier when Ochoa hit. He is a marvelous musician and revered in Cuba, and especially in Santiago. Damn, I cannot believe how good this music is. And then out comes William Vivanco, who I heard early in my stay at Teatro Mella in Havana with a full band. He does a couple of traditional tunes with Ochoa - acknowledging the traditions of son - and the hits with a very sparse accompaniments of cajon and elec bass. what a change from what he had in Havana. He is regarded as one of the leading younger musicians of today. He sings and plays guitar...another killer.
So that is the end of the 1st full day in Santiago.
Saturday sees me going to Guantanamo with the students. Nothing outstanding ther...I think they thought they would be able to see the US camp, but no chance of that. The scenery and land during the drive was spectacular - the sierra maestra mountains, with vistas that stretched forever. The farm lands and towns like Songo, a predominantly Black town that was founded by former slaves in the late 1800s's. Also a treatment facility for those with mental health issues.
we got back around 4 and as soon as we emptied out the bus, the skies opened up with torrents of rain. Electricity in hotel went out almost immediately and stayed off for about 90 minutes.
Later, after rain stopped and sun came out, we went to special performance of tumba francesa.
Please go to this website for more information (www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=EN&cp=CU)
Tumba francesa is very unique and special - that is the reason UNESCO has recognized as an intangible cultural heritage of world humanity. I have known about it for a while and even experienced it 15 years ago. So to have the opportunity to provide it for the students and the rest of us was exciting.
The location was right in the hood, and it was an enriching experience. We were up close and personal, with musicians and dancers. Got some great video as both Alan and I used cameras. May be some glitches but I think we will have worthy documentation. A great experience for all - be interesting to see what the students say as all but one of them left right after the performance. No communication with the performers at all. But Rebecca, the only AfrAm student in the group, stayed and really engaged with many of the performers. She, Alan, Oscar and I stayed for another couple of hours, engaged in discussion and rum. Age ranged from early 20's ( Rebecca and some of the dancers) to perro viejo aka me. At one point, the drums came back out and Rebecca was given spontaneous lessons in rumba, which she has been pursuing during her time here. Enriching experience for her.
Around 11, I had to go, dolor de espalda (backache). As Rebecca and I walked back together, who did we see in a free concert but William Vivanco, so she left for that and I trudged on in solo for the nod.
Sunday saw us up and at em for desayuno then to trova festival at 11am. I stayed till 2:30 pm and video'd a lot. Again, some very moving and exciting musical performances. Cuban trova is rooted in the vocal tradition of European traditions of troubadors and the African traditions of griots. Groups we saw ranged from duos featuring female cantantes to full blown son groups of 8-9 pieces. Folks danced and it was a fiesta a grand proportions. At 2:30 we headed to the Antonia Maceo airport for our flight back to Havana scheduled for 4:30. Well, given the amazing weekend, something had to come up to keep us in magical Santiago. The plane was coming from Haiti and ended up being 4 hours late, so we got into Havana around 10:30 and here at the residence around 11:30 after dropping the students.
What a great three days...A mi cuba.
Down to the last week and hoping to hear and see Maraca manyana. Alan has been talking about this gato since we got here so we'll see. Chaio...
Now let me back up a little as this was the fouth day in row of la musica increible...It began with our weekend trip to Santiago. This had some reflections for me as this was the initial stop on my Cuban experience fifteen years ago. Santiago is one of the oldest towns, est. in 1515. It also has some unique Africanisms, including tumba francesa..but I will get to that.
Alan and I arranged this trip for estudiantes as part of their learning about Cuban culture. We had identified Oscar Menzies via Arianna Hall of CubaNola. Linking with Oscar ended up being very important as he is so knowledgeable of cultural traditions of Santiago and is also highly regarded in the community. He was referred to as the "babalao of tumba francesa." We also found out there was a fiesta de trova happening all weekend...and I had just covered trova in class with the students,including a presentation by Alberto Faya. We arranged for a special performance of tumba francesa for them.
So we fly in on Thursday night, arriving around 10pm to drizzle. we get to hotel which is centrally located in Santiago, right across from plaza de marte. Notice touristas from Germany and other European countries. Rooms nice, even had a bed big enough for me to turn over without falling off.
Friday begins with desayuno, which is included in the package so I plan on eating hearty, hoping it will last until la cena. Afterwards, we - estudiantes, Oscar, Ismar(guide) y Mario (driver) of Havana tours, Alan and myself, head out to El Cobre to see important church as well as visit site commemorating legacy of freedom fights of the enslaved..cimarrons with sculpture by Lescay. But on the way, we stop at plaza de la revolution where we see a huge - and I mean huge - sculpture by Alberto Lescay, Cuban master artist of African ancestry, of Antonio Maceo, Cubano of African ancestry who was a great warrior in the fight for independence in late 1800s and is a national hero. The size of the work is staggering, over 80 feet in height and probably 25 to 30 feet in length and width. It shows Maceo on rearing horse, gesturing for those behind to follow him. Next to it is a large sculpture depicting machetes, which were used by enslaved Blacks in the freedom fights. This is a powerful representation of the history of the fight for freedom in Cuba that stretches back to the mid 1800's on into the late 50's with success in 1959.
We then continue on out to the country side and El Cobre, which was a site for copper mining established in the 1500's. It has a church that is revered as the home of the virgin of charity and miracles. Below is info I copied from this website (www.sacred-destinations.com/cuba/el-cobre.htm).
"The Virgin of Charity (La Virgen de la Caridad) is a miraculous statue of the Virgin Mary in the mining town of El Cobre, outside Santiago in southwest Cuba. Her shrine is the most important religious site on the entire island. A focus of intese popular devotion—not just for Catholics but also for followers of SanterÃa and even those who aren't otherwise religious—the beloved Virgin of Charity was declared the patron saint of Cuba by the pope in 1916. "
After asking for blessings for the family and forgiveness for the horrors of the mines and enslavement, we move on the Cimarron monument, which is located on a hill opposite the cchurch and offers a spectacular view of the area. Challenging climb up, even with steps carved into the hill. Reminded me of younger times growing up in Frankfort, KY when we would climb Fort Hill for adventures too numerous and exciting to mention.
For more on the monument in Cobre, please go to this website for more info (humweb.ucsc.edu/elcobre/images_commemoration.html). This is a site that features Alberto Lescay's sculptured monument (over 40 feet with an nganga -regla de palo- at the base) commemorating the Runaway slave. It is part of a transnational commemorative project sponsored jointly by UNESCO and local entities entitled the "Route of the Slave." Linked with the Virgin of charity in the church across the valley, the spiritual connection here was very strong, not to mention the recognition of the enslaved and the strength of those who fought for their freedom and were labeled cimarrons (runaways) by the Spanish. Reminds me of the old spiritual in the USA, Oh Freedom whose lyrics are, "before I'll be a slave I'll be buried in my grave and go home to my lord and be free."
We spent some time up here and it was well worth it. Thinking on the common experiences that colonialism brought to this part of the world and have been perpetuated. How we, the people of the Americas in general and Black folks in specific, are continuing to struggle at this time but striving to rid ourselves of the long and deep legacy of imperialism, oppression, racism and assumptions of power that continued to burden us today.
And all this happens before almuerzo, so we head back to Santiago for a meal. Later we go to Fort Morro which has spectacular views of Santiago harbor and Caribbean sea. Historical significance in that the harbor was the sight of the final naval battle where USA and Cuban defeated Spain in late 1800's. After this, we head back to hotel for quiet time, but first, Alan, Oscar and I stop at Casa de la trova, which is the site the trova festival. We just miss a performace and after drinking a bottle of mineral water, I head back to hotel on foot. About a 20 minute walk through Santiago which allows me to get a better feel and to orientate myself.
Later that evening, Oscar arranges for Alan and I to attend a live performance of Eliades Ochoa, William Vivanco, and Los Jubilanos in the Salon de Son. This is a newly opened facililty where performances are taped with live audiences. In attendance are important government officials as well as significant members of Santiago community including master musicians.
The music was..ok you should know by now - off the planet. Los Jubilanos is a son group composed of older Afro Cubans (most 70 and above) under the direction of Pedro Gomez. Absolute killers..and I got their recording at the torova festival on Sunday. Opps - getting ahead of myself. They were followed by Eliades Ochoa, whom some of you may know from Beuna Vista, but he wasn't doing nothing like what I heard this night. His group featured elec keys, two tmrpts, congas, bongos, acoustic bass, rhythm guitar, and vocalist. Gorgeous music, with tight arrangements. Of course folks had begun dancing with Jubilanos and it got even busier when Ochoa hit. He is a marvelous musician and revered in Cuba, and especially in Santiago. Damn, I cannot believe how good this music is. And then out comes William Vivanco, who I heard early in my stay at Teatro Mella in Havana with a full band. He does a couple of traditional tunes with Ochoa - acknowledging the traditions of son - and the hits with a very sparse accompaniments of cajon and elec bass. what a change from what he had in Havana. He is regarded as one of the leading younger musicians of today. He sings and plays guitar...another killer.
So that is the end of the 1st full day in Santiago.
Saturday sees me going to Guantanamo with the students. Nothing outstanding ther...I think they thought they would be able to see the US camp, but no chance of that. The scenery and land during the drive was spectacular - the sierra maestra mountains, with vistas that stretched forever. The farm lands and towns like Songo, a predominantly Black town that was founded by former slaves in the late 1800s's. Also a treatment facility for those with mental health issues.
we got back around 4 and as soon as we emptied out the bus, the skies opened up with torrents of rain. Electricity in hotel went out almost immediately and stayed off for about 90 minutes.
Later, after rain stopped and sun came out, we went to special performance of tumba francesa.
Please go to this website for more information (www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=EN&cp=CU)
Tumba francesa is very unique and special - that is the reason UNESCO has recognized as an intangible cultural heritage of world humanity. I have known about it for a while and even experienced it 15 years ago. So to have the opportunity to provide it for the students and the rest of us was exciting.
The location was right in the hood, and it was an enriching experience. We were up close and personal, with musicians and dancers. Got some great video as both Alan and I used cameras. May be some glitches but I think we will have worthy documentation. A great experience for all - be interesting to see what the students say as all but one of them left right after the performance. No communication with the performers at all. But Rebecca, the only AfrAm student in the group, stayed and really engaged with many of the performers. She, Alan, Oscar and I stayed for another couple of hours, engaged in discussion and rum. Age ranged from early 20's ( Rebecca and some of the dancers) to perro viejo aka me. At one point, the drums came back out and Rebecca was given spontaneous lessons in rumba, which she has been pursuing during her time here. Enriching experience for her.
Around 11, I had to go, dolor de espalda (backache). As Rebecca and I walked back together, who did we see in a free concert but William Vivanco, so she left for that and I trudged on in solo for the nod.
Sunday saw us up and at em for desayuno then to trova festival at 11am. I stayed till 2:30 pm and video'd a lot. Again, some very moving and exciting musical performances. Cuban trova is rooted in the vocal tradition of European traditions of troubadors and the African traditions of griots. Groups we saw ranged from duos featuring female cantantes to full blown son groups of 8-9 pieces. Folks danced and it was a fiesta a grand proportions. At 2:30 we headed to the Antonia Maceo airport for our flight back to Havana scheduled for 4:30. Well, given the amazing weekend, something had to come up to keep us in magical Santiago. The plane was coming from Haiti and ended up being 4 hours late, so we got into Havana around 10:30 and here at the residence around 11:30 after dropping the students.
What a great three days...A mi cuba.
Down to the last week and hoping to hear and see Maraca manyana. Alan has been talking about this gato since we got here so we'll see. Chaio...
Monday, March 16, 2009
Pelota Reflections on La Musica de Cuba Lunes, diez y seis, marzo
Hola mi amigos y familia who are reading this. After getting Cheryl off to airport, spent yesterday with friends here looking at Cuba and Japan game in World Baseball Classic. Baseball is called pelota here - not beisbol and anything else - just pelota. Because it is Cuba, the expectation for the team to do well is heavy...to say the least. So losing to Japan resulted in some serious blues here today. But what I really want to mention is the refreshing experience of watching the game on television with NO COMMERCIALS. With the exception of the ads displayed in Petco Park in San Diego, there are no commercials between innings or anywhere else. So the time is filled with great Cuban music - Irakere's version of Stella by Starlight..youch!!!; rumba, son, boleros, cha cha cha you name it, they played it...except rap and reggaeton. All recorded music along with video replays of earlier games in the world classic and highlights of the Cuban team. Make a brother want to get up and dance!
Friday, March 13, 2009
Viernes, triente de Marzo
Well this is my first update since last Friday. The most significant thing is that Cheryl came in on Sunday and we have been experiencing Havana, via some of the things I know and then new stuff for both of us. To say it is good to have her here is an understatement. We have experienced some good music, from Bosch at the Havana Jazz Club and rumba in Callejon de Hamel last Sunday to more rumba at the UNEAC (calle diez y siete) on Wednesday and she heard changui yesterday while out with Alan.
We also did an open top bus tour of downtown Havana that was good and ended up at the Museo de La Revolucion, where we spent Wednesday morning. This museo chronicles Cuban history through the revolution of 1959. It is housed int he old presidential palace. If walls could talk....Beautiful, stately marble construction and clearly of the upper class rich folks who, from my perspective, perpetuated the European feudal system in Cuba - that's the reason they needed a revolution in 1959. The earlier ones of the late 1800's got rid of the Spain as a overseer and ended enslavement, but then the USA moved in acting in very similar imperialistic ways, which benefited the rich Cuban families who acted very much like the old Spanish lords they had vanquished. So the revolucion led by Fidel, Che, Haydee, Cienfuegos, Raul, etc. succeeded in 1959 in changing that...or at least a lot of it. No doubt that in the process a number of families and individuals had to make choices on whether go or stay in the post revolucion Cuba, and many families lost all they had when they decided to leave. Some benefits include one of the highest literacy rates in the world, an infant mortality rate that is one of the lowest in the world and free health care. But plenty of issues now, fifty years after the revolucion the average Cuban makes $17 per month and there are big issues of opportunity for careers for the youth...and one still cannot travel outside of Cuba without government approval.
On Monday, We visited the Colon cemetery (again for me as I had been there with the students). Spent more time and saw more of it with Cheryl. And was welcomed by an elderly lady who was glad to know we were from USA. This cemetery is something to see..no pun intended. Spacious and grand, with plenty of history there. The same day we walked up to calle diez y siete off the Paseo and went to a small park where there is a statue of John Lennon. Took some photos. Interesting that they have a statue of Lennon - where is the one for Duke or Louis or Aretha or Ella...oh well. Guess we should be glad that they at least recognized Lennon...I never have been a Beatles fan.
Yesterday I did a solo concert at Casa de Las Americas as a way to show our (Alan, students, Nu and me) appreciation for teh way they have embraced us for the last 3 months. The concert lasted about an hour in which I payed about 14 tunes - kind of a stream of consciousness thing that I had been working on for a couple of weeks. All worked well except the blues I did for Zenaida ( Zenaida's Azules). Just didn't hit it the way I wanted and should have. But all else was pretty much on the money. And the Casa folks really enjoyed it as did other invitees from the Cuban music community and Cheryl too.
This morning I went with the students to a briefing they asked me to set up with the US Interest section here. It is a 10 minute walk from Casa. We spent about 2 hours with some foreign service officers there. They explained their roles and the role of the US Interest in Cuba and then fielded questions from the students. It was an interesting experience to hear about our endeavors in a country where we are regarded as the enemy. Of course nothing clandestine was revealed but is is clear that there is little direct engagement between the US Interest and the Cuban government, but there is certainly some dialogue that happens via heads of states of other Latin American countries.
Cheryl was able to get a visit to a school via Caridad at Casa. This was arranged at the last minute as previous arrangements fell through with changes in Cuban upper governmental structure last week. Glad of that because that was a principal reason for her to come...along with seeing me. Will probably do another museo this afternoon and who knows what tonight - hopefully la musica. Cheryl leaves on Sunday so she will decide how to use the remaining time.
Next Thursday, we fly to Santiago for the weekend which is exciting for me as that was the beginning site of my first visit to Cuba 15 years ago. Alan found out that there is a music festival happening all weekend in Santiago so you know I am excited. Two weeks to go and then a king size bed. Adios mi amigos y la familia.
Well this is my first update since last Friday. The most significant thing is that Cheryl came in on Sunday and we have been experiencing Havana, via some of the things I know and then new stuff for both of us. To say it is good to have her here is an understatement. We have experienced some good music, from Bosch at the Havana Jazz Club and rumba in Callejon de Hamel last Sunday to more rumba at the UNEAC (calle diez y siete) on Wednesday and she heard changui yesterday while out with Alan.
We also did an open top bus tour of downtown Havana that was good and ended up at the Museo de La Revolucion, where we spent Wednesday morning. This museo chronicles Cuban history through the revolution of 1959. It is housed int he old presidential palace. If walls could talk....Beautiful, stately marble construction and clearly of the upper class rich folks who, from my perspective, perpetuated the European feudal system in Cuba - that's the reason they needed a revolution in 1959. The earlier ones of the late 1800's got rid of the Spain as a overseer and ended enslavement, but then the USA moved in acting in very similar imperialistic ways, which benefited the rich Cuban families who acted very much like the old Spanish lords they had vanquished. So the revolucion led by Fidel, Che, Haydee, Cienfuegos, Raul, etc. succeeded in 1959 in changing that...or at least a lot of it. No doubt that in the process a number of families and individuals had to make choices on whether go or stay in the post revolucion Cuba, and many families lost all they had when they decided to leave. Some benefits include one of the highest literacy rates in the world, an infant mortality rate that is one of the lowest in the world and free health care. But plenty of issues now, fifty years after the revolucion the average Cuban makes $17 per month and there are big issues of opportunity for careers for the youth...and one still cannot travel outside of Cuba without government approval.
On Monday, We visited the Colon cemetery (again for me as I had been there with the students). Spent more time and saw more of it with Cheryl. And was welcomed by an elderly lady who was glad to know we were from USA. This cemetery is something to see..no pun intended. Spacious and grand, with plenty of history there. The same day we walked up to calle diez y siete off the Paseo and went to a small park where there is a statue of John Lennon. Took some photos. Interesting that they have a statue of Lennon - where is the one for Duke or Louis or Aretha or Ella...oh well. Guess we should be glad that they at least recognized Lennon...I never have been a Beatles fan.
Yesterday I did a solo concert at Casa de Las Americas as a way to show our (Alan, students, Nu and me) appreciation for teh way they have embraced us for the last 3 months. The concert lasted about an hour in which I payed about 14 tunes - kind of a stream of consciousness thing that I had been working on for a couple of weeks. All worked well except the blues I did for Zenaida ( Zenaida's Azules). Just didn't hit it the way I wanted and should have. But all else was pretty much on the money. And the Casa folks really enjoyed it as did other invitees from the Cuban music community and Cheryl too.
This morning I went with the students to a briefing they asked me to set up with the US Interest section here. It is a 10 minute walk from Casa. We spent about 2 hours with some foreign service officers there. They explained their roles and the role of the US Interest in Cuba and then fielded questions from the students. It was an interesting experience to hear about our endeavors in a country where we are regarded as the enemy. Of course nothing clandestine was revealed but is is clear that there is little direct engagement between the US Interest and the Cuban government, but there is certainly some dialogue that happens via heads of states of other Latin American countries.
Cheryl was able to get a visit to a school via Caridad at Casa. This was arranged at the last minute as previous arrangements fell through with changes in Cuban upper governmental structure last week. Glad of that because that was a principal reason for her to come...along with seeing me. Will probably do another museo this afternoon and who knows what tonight - hopefully la musica. Cheryl leaves on Sunday so she will decide how to use the remaining time.
Next Thursday, we fly to Santiago for the weekend which is exciting for me as that was the beginning site of my first visit to Cuba 15 years ago. Alan found out that there is a music festival happening all weekend in Santiago so you know I am excited. Two weeks to go and then a king size bed. Adios mi amigos y la familia.
Friday, March 6, 2009
Viernes, Seis de Marzo
Well, have this day all to myself as Alan y estudiates are off to Cienfuegos and Trinidad till Domingo. Cheryl comes in tomorrow. This day has been devoted to getting exams graded and spending time shedding for my solo concert next Thursday. Finished grading around 2:00 and then went for a long walk and got some lunch. If anyone reading this comes to Habana in recent times and stays in the Verdado area, the place for the bomb almuerzo is La Habana Jazz Cafe in the gallery mall at the end of Paseo and calle uno: 1 block from Malecon and right across from the Hotel Melia. For $4, U get 1/2 pollo - either asado or frito, con rice and beans, a little salad of shredded beets and cabbage, and a drink. Cannot beat it for price, quantity or quality. Only available at lunch up till maybe 3pm. Plus great views of the Atlantic Ocean through large panes that could stand a serious cleaning but a good view regardless - 3 stories up so you can see forever out into the Atlantic looking north toward USA.
Spent some good time shedding this am too. Repertoire gonna include Saints, Cuban lullaby Duerme mi Negrita, Zenaida's Azules, Afro-Blue, Samira's Song, Miss Ann, Fonseca's song for Cachaito and who knows what else. The concert is next Thursday - solo soprano sax for Casa folks.
Cheryl is coming tomorrow and that will be great. We can hang for 8 days and see parts of Habana I know and parts I don't know. Glad to have her here with me. May go hear some boleros at UNEAC tomorrow after she gets in. Then to outside stuff on Sunday with rumba and guaguanco at noon, possibly classical concert honoring international dia de las mujeres at Teatro Roldan at 5 and then wrapping up with Roberto Fonseca at 11pm at Habana Jazz Club.
She will decide what, if any , we do of these possibilities. I am just the planner on this one, not the decider, even though I am lobbying heavily for Fonseca.
Gabi, mi maestro de espanol and el hijo de Hector y Mirta, has arranged with a friend of his to take all of us (Gabi, his friend and me) to and from airport to get Cheryl. Having them both should make things a lot easier than taking a cab back and forth. It is nice to have this local contact in situations such as this.
We are in the last weeks of this adventure. Three weeks from today sees us in our last three days in Habana. But plenty to happen before then, including a trip to Santiago on 3/19-22. And I have two musicians coming to the class - on March 24, Alberta Faya will present on the role of music in la revolucion and post la revolucion up to today. On St Patty's day, Sonia Perez will present on principal genres of cuban music culture with a focus on guajiro music. Her husband is Barbarito, the oud master from Buena Vista Social Club. Will let y'all know how it goes.
Oh Yeah, one of Zenaida's hijas brought in a radio last week and she keeps it on all day - which is great because I love radio and I get a chance to hear what is on the Cuban airways. Right now there is music of santeria ceremonies - sounds like regla de ocha but could be another regla such as palo. I have heard pop stuff, hip hop, older spanish songs like boleros and reggaeton...lord have mercy, reggaeton.
Das it for now - chaio.
Spent some good time shedding this am too. Repertoire gonna include Saints, Cuban lullaby Duerme mi Negrita, Zenaida's Azules, Afro-Blue, Samira's Song, Miss Ann, Fonseca's song for Cachaito and who knows what else. The concert is next Thursday - solo soprano sax for Casa folks.
Cheryl is coming tomorrow and that will be great. We can hang for 8 days and see parts of Habana I know and parts I don't know. Glad to have her here with me. May go hear some boleros at UNEAC tomorrow after she gets in. Then to outside stuff on Sunday with rumba and guaguanco at noon, possibly classical concert honoring international dia de las mujeres at Teatro Roldan at 5 and then wrapping up with Roberto Fonseca at 11pm at Habana Jazz Club.
She will decide what, if any , we do of these possibilities. I am just the planner on this one, not the decider, even though I am lobbying heavily for Fonseca.
Gabi, mi maestro de espanol and el hijo de Hector y Mirta, has arranged with a friend of his to take all of us (Gabi, his friend and me) to and from airport to get Cheryl. Having them both should make things a lot easier than taking a cab back and forth. It is nice to have this local contact in situations such as this.
We are in the last weeks of this adventure. Three weeks from today sees us in our last three days in Habana. But plenty to happen before then, including a trip to Santiago on 3/19-22. And I have two musicians coming to the class - on March 24, Alberta Faya will present on the role of music in la revolucion and post la revolucion up to today. On St Patty's day, Sonia Perez will present on principal genres of cuban music culture with a focus on guajiro music. Her husband is Barbarito, the oud master from Buena Vista Social Club. Will let y'all know how it goes.
Oh Yeah, one of Zenaida's hijas brought in a radio last week and she keeps it on all day - which is great because I love radio and I get a chance to hear what is on the Cuban airways. Right now there is music of santeria ceremonies - sounds like regla de ocha but could be another regla such as palo. I have heard pop stuff, hip hop, older spanish songs like boleros and reggaeton...lord have mercy, reggaeton.
Das it for now - chaio.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Pablo, Pedro and more
Miercoles, cuatro de Marzo
A little cool this morning. In fact weather has been like this since the big storm Sunday night. Today will see Leonel Fernández, president of the Dominican Republic, visiting Casa so that means security will be all over the place and we will probably be in lock down mode for part of the day.
At 2pm we are visiting the famous Colon cemetery in Havana known for its architectural design and resting place for the remains of some of Cuba’s most significant and important persons.
Last night, Alan and I went to La Zorra y El Cuervo, jazz club on Calle veinte y tres to hear Pablo Menendez’ group. Pablo is a guitarist of international reputation and he had a seven piece band that included a guest appearance by Yasek Manzano, the young outstanding trumpeter that I heard my 1st night in Habana, Group was very good and featured an eclectic repertoire. Instrumentation was elec. keyboardist and flutist, elec. bassist, trap dummer, congas and bata drummer, tenor saxophonista, Manzano and Pablo.
This entrance door at street level reminded me of the Village Vanguard. And of course the club was down the steps into the basement level, which reminded me of the Bohemian Caverns. It is a small club with a bar and the sound was very good. It is one of the principal spots for jazz in Havana.
This is the first live music experience since hearing Pedro Luis Ferrer last Friday at a library near the Marti Monument on Paseo. Ferrer is a well-known singer, guitarist and composer who has been somewhat censored by the government for his outspoken opinions about the condition of the Cuban people.
The scene at the library was one of great anticipation. When we arrived at 4pm, there was a line out the door into the street. There were people of all ages seeking to get into a small auditorium that seated maybe 150. Being that Alan and I were with Hector, we somehow got to near the front through his use of his photographer press credentials. Once the doors opened it was a real rush and squeeze to get in but we made it and had great seats. Plenty of folks did not get in and were not happy. Ferrer’s performance was very good, and he was accompanied by his daughter (vocals and percussion) and brother (guitar, vocals and percussion). He has a distinctive voice and is a very good guitarist. The repertoire featured his compositions, many of which were known by the audience. It is clear that he is an artist loved by many of his fellow Cubanos.
Tomorrow sees Alan and the kids headed to Cienfuegos for a weekend trip. I am staying here because Cheryl is flying in Saturday. Yes, yes, yes!
A little cool this morning. In fact weather has been like this since the big storm Sunday night. Today will see Leonel Fernández, president of the Dominican Republic, visiting Casa so that means security will be all over the place and we will probably be in lock down mode for part of the day.
At 2pm we are visiting the famous Colon cemetery in Havana known for its architectural design and resting place for the remains of some of Cuba’s most significant and important persons.
Last night, Alan and I went to La Zorra y El Cuervo, jazz club on Calle veinte y tres to hear Pablo Menendez’ group. Pablo is a guitarist of international reputation and he had a seven piece band that included a guest appearance by Yasek Manzano, the young outstanding trumpeter that I heard my 1st night in Habana, Group was very good and featured an eclectic repertoire. Instrumentation was elec. keyboardist and flutist, elec. bassist, trap dummer, congas and bata drummer, tenor saxophonista, Manzano and Pablo.
This entrance door at street level reminded me of the Village Vanguard. And of course the club was down the steps into the basement level, which reminded me of the Bohemian Caverns. It is a small club with a bar and the sound was very good. It is one of the principal spots for jazz in Havana.
This is the first live music experience since hearing Pedro Luis Ferrer last Friday at a library near the Marti Monument on Paseo. Ferrer is a well-known singer, guitarist and composer who has been somewhat censored by the government for his outspoken opinions about the condition of the Cuban people.
The scene at the library was one of great anticipation. When we arrived at 4pm, there was a line out the door into the street. There were people of all ages seeking to get into a small auditorium that seated maybe 150. Being that Alan and I were with Hector, we somehow got to near the front through his use of his photographer press credentials. Once the doors opened it was a real rush and squeeze to get in but we made it and had great seats. Plenty of folks did not get in and were not happy. Ferrer’s performance was very good, and he was accompanied by his daughter (vocals and percussion) and brother (guitar, vocals and percussion). He has a distinctive voice and is a very good guitarist. The repertoire featured his compositions, many of which were known by the audience. It is clear that he is an artist loved by many of his fellow Cubanos.
Tomorrow sees Alan and the kids headed to Cienfuegos for a weekend trip. I am staying here because Cheryl is flying in Saturday. Yes, yes, yes!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
