Saturday, March 28, 2009

Sabado, the last full day in Havana as we fly out tomorrow, via Miami and hopefully into Boston round midnite. Yesterday I went to central Havana and dropped off some photo prints that our good friend, Danny Merida, sent via Cheryl for his cousin Erasmito. Erasmito is a flutist with the symphony here. After that, I did some tourista stuff that I had not done, including walking around the capitol, up and down the Prado and on into Barrio Chine, taking photos all the way.

Then I sat in a plaza waiting for the bus and talked with folks in my very limited and broken Spanish. Most were curious about who I was and why I was here. An older Afro-Cuban man told me in English, as he passed by, that he was not sure he was happy about me being in his country. Nothing threatening, just a passing comment, and worthy of acknowledging. I asked him why, but he just kept on moving. Another lady was an elementary school teacher in playas de este. She teaches espanol to grades 1 thru five. She wanted to know why I was here and was curious about what our students are studying.

Then onto the bus and back to Verdado, where I picked up a couple of cds and had pizza at Hotel El Presidente. right down the street from where I stay. Ran into a group of US men there dressed in baseball uniforms, some of which were dusty from playing. I asked them what they were up to and found out they come to play baseball aka pelota here - with similar cubans - a type of good will via deportes. Some have been coming for multiple years. Nice to see.

I forgot to mention Oscar Valdez at Havana Jazz Cafe on Wednesday night. Alan and I went as we had seen him advertised all during the time we have been here so... It was an interesting set with Valdez on batas and chequeres and vocals, a conga drummer of Japanese ancestry playing 3 congas, a trap drummer, elec. bass, elec. keys and reed man on flute and tenor. This was another good band, with tight arrangements. Featured a beautiful song for Yemanya as well as WoodynYou by Diz and another bop classic that I cannot remember the title. along with a version of "Walkin". This was our last time at Havana Jazz Club and it has served us well, with outstanding performances, reasonable prices and great location - 6 blocks away.

Last night, went to Alan's Titi Gloria for a good home cooked meal. Got in here around 11:30, poco cansado but in time enough to skype with Cheryl.

Hoy sees me packing up and then headed out to consider possible cd purchases. Down to the last few Cuc ( Cuban money) so will have to be selective and looking for the killer deals. Egrem -major Cuban label- has store a couple of blocks away in the Teatro Roldan. Have heard plenty of great stuff and know some specific musicians whose music I am seeking. Glad I waited to the end rather than jumping in too fast..not that I haven't bought anything. At 5 pm, I go to UNEAC via an invitation by Alberto Faya, one of the founders to the Nuevo Trova here post la revolucion and a real leader in the music community. He sings, composes, plays guitar, and has radio and television shows. I met him through Alan and had him come to class last week and present on the trova tradition as related to the revolution and today's time. I like him very much and we had an almost immediate click. His knowledge and understanding of how music serves to unify and strengthen people in times of change is impressive.

So he invited me to a session where newly recruited young teachers of 7th 8th and 9th grades are interfacing with musicians to talk about integrating music into the curriculum. There will also be a chance to play, so I am taking my horn. After that, Alan and I are taking Zenaida, aka La Reina Madre, out for dinner. Just a small token of our appreciation of the care she has given us at the Casa residence where we stay. I will probably head to La Zorra & El Cuervo to hear Yasek Manzano, the young trumpet lion. In fact, we may play some before as Faya said he would probably be at the UNEAC. So that is the plan for hoy. Tomorrow we are picked up at 11am to airport for 2:30 pm flight to Miami and then 8:30pm flight to Boston. Maybe I can catch some of the NCAA Div 1 College Basketball finals between flights.

Later I will write my reflections on this trip. But even now, I need to thank Omrao for encouraging me to do this blog. It has been very beneficial for me to be able to share my experiences with those of you who read it. Cuba is a daily challenge because so many here have so little, and if you take the time to pay attention, you can see that it is wearing on the people. When you come in as a visitor, you plug in at a different level. Cubans know you must have some resources and expect you to shar them. So if you go for a meal with a Cuban, you pay. Same if you ask someone out for a drink, etc. One learns quickly that asking two or three Cuban friends out for a night can be very expensive. And please habla espanol. I have made it thru with my pathetic Spanish and Alan's patience but one really needs to be fluent with language to interact with Cuban culture.

I can say that Cubans love and respect for music and dance is unique and somewhat special in these days of what I consider excessive homogeneity of music via globalization. Rumba, changui, son, timba, punto guajiro, danzon and the other Cuban genres are alive and well here. Rap here is not about bitches and hoes and glitz and glamor...it is more about social consciousness and issues facing youth., racial as well as gender. But Reggaeton is exerting some serious power that has some folks concerned about the future of traditional Cuban music. Time will tell, but from what I have heard in live settings, master musicians like Ochoa, Maraca, Eva Grinan and Chucho Valdes will ensure that the music continues to grown and evolve. And then there are the young ones who are being developed as I write. La Musica Cubana in the 21st century is really something. I have experienced it in many setting and locations, from concert halls to classrooms, the radio and tv, to religious and spiritual contexts, and in the streets. What a blessing....

7pm: Ok I just came back from UNEAC session with Faya and Yasek Manzano, where we played and discussed improvisation. It was attended by UNEAC members from the surrounding community and the purpose is to re-establish community involvement in the arts, as things have waned over the past few years. Faya is at the center of this revitalization. Yasek has studied with Wynton and Hargrove so you know he plays real good. Add to that his understanding of his own Cuban traditions and incorporating them in the music and it is something special. We did some blues as well as spontaneous improv and I will probably go hear him tonight at La Zorra at 11pm. The blessing continues....

ps on Sunday, 3/29 @ 7:30am. Did not go see Yazek last night...too tired so stayed in and rapped with Alan about effectiveness of this initial study abroad in Cuba.

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